I am thinking of buying 5 chipmunks and would like to know what size enclosure they should have and a bit more imformation.
Thanks
Answers:
Can one BUY chipmunks?
I know a bit about chipmunks, and that is that you Don't keep them as pets!! That is unhealthy for the WILD chipmunk, wether is was raised by a human hand or not, it is still wild.
Where are you buying chipmunks at? I thought it was illegal to sell them or any other wild animals for pets.
Now if it is a rescued animal that could not live in the wild then I could see it.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Any ideas why one of my russian dwarven Hamsters is going a light grey during the summer? and the others arn't
Any ideas why one of my russian dwarven Hamsters is going a lighter shade of grey during the summer? and the others arn't.
I think they're winter whites, but that wouldn't explain the white during summer... unless hes a summer white ;).
So 3 Hamsters, two are dark grey and sleep all day, and one is very white grey and also very active (probably runs in his wheel more than sleeps)
Answers:
Dwarf hamsters bought in the US are occassionally mixed winter white, so they will not go totally white during the winter. Also, by keeping them inside and controlling their environment (artificial light, artificial heat, air conditioning) you can mess with their natural habits. Is your room where you keep the hamsters air conditioned? You may have 'tricked' their bodies into thinking this might be winter - the air is constantly cooler than it was in the winter months, since then you had the heat on and the air was quite warm and dry (like summer to them). Remember how sensitive dwarf hamsters can be to small temperature changes.
Another thing to think about is the age of the hamster. I had a totally black dwarf hamster from the time he was twelve weeks old, and as he got much older (over 18 months) his hair started going white! By the time he died (over two and a half years after I got him!) he was almost half silvery white.
As for the activity level, that could just be different hamsters. I have had dwarf hamsters that slept all night and were up all day, which is strange in a normally nocturnal animal. Remember that these animals were nocturnal in the wild; by attempting to tame them and keep them as housepets, we have messed with their instincts. Dwarves have been known to run over three miles a night in their natural habitat to find food. Also, even if they're from the same litter, it is possible for only one of them to have the winter white gene dominant; the other two might have it recessively.
Vun day Ve vill rule zer vold, un der Hamster grey vill be zer kink. Luk avter im gut, he iz preshus too zer racink und vill revard you later hon bye allowink yu to marry vith iz zizter, zat really kuddly ginger hamster in Henglantz green unt plesant lant.... Ve hav start, zo zer iz none stoppink uz.
Lonk Living Zer Kink
Perhaps he's a slightly different breed than the others? Or are they from the same litter?
Maybe his body clock is a little confused about the seasons. Is your house quite cool? Sometimes we tend to have the house really toasty warm in the winter and cooler in the summer, so if they are indoors all the time, then this could confuse them about what season it is. I did read somewhere that the winter white's colour change is affected by factors such as whether they have access to natural light, or whether they mainly get artificial light. This can affect whether they change colour, and how much by. It may be that as the other two hamsters are a lot less active and therefore sleeping more, they are getting less light and notice temperature changes less due to being snuggled up in their nests.
Some guesswork going on in my answer, but hope it helps!
Firstly, this isn't anything to worry about. There are many reasons for hamsters' coat colours to change, and it's usually a normal, natural thing.
There are actually two breeds of Russian Dwarf hamsters, Winter Whites and Campbells. These are genetically very similar and so they can interbreed, producing hybrids. Unfortunately this is a big problem in the hamster fancy, as it means it is now very difficult to be sure a hamster is a pure example of either species so the species may be lost. Also, several negative genetic traits are being passed between the two species, like the tendency for Campbells to get diabetes.
Winter White hamsters have coats that will change colour when certain factors in their environment change, such as light levels, temperature etc. This won't necessarily be in winter.
Also, not all Winter Whites will turn actually white, they may turn different shades of brown/grey or become mottled.
Overall it is possible that you have one Winter White and two Campbells, or that one or more of them are hybrids, or that you have three Winter Whites and only one is responding to the environmental fluctuation. Did you get these hamsters from a breeder? Are all three from the same place?
As for the level of activity during the day, again that's not too much to worry about as hamsters are individuals and their activity levels vary. They may be different ages, which would explain why one has a lot more energy than the others.
As I've mentioned, diabetes can be a problem with dwarf hamsters. If they are urinating and/or drinking a lot more than usual I'd ask your vet to test them. There's a lot you can do with their diet to improve their quality of life.
i agree you prob have different types of these hammys - as long as they look healthy and are eating i wouldnt worry ;)
I think they're winter whites, but that wouldn't explain the white during summer... unless hes a summer white ;).
So 3 Hamsters, two are dark grey and sleep all day, and one is very white grey and also very active (probably runs in his wheel more than sleeps)
Answers:
Dwarf hamsters bought in the US are occassionally mixed winter white, so they will not go totally white during the winter. Also, by keeping them inside and controlling their environment (artificial light, artificial heat, air conditioning) you can mess with their natural habits. Is your room where you keep the hamsters air conditioned? You may have 'tricked' their bodies into thinking this might be winter - the air is constantly cooler than it was in the winter months, since then you had the heat on and the air was quite warm and dry (like summer to them). Remember how sensitive dwarf hamsters can be to small temperature changes.
Another thing to think about is the age of the hamster. I had a totally black dwarf hamster from the time he was twelve weeks old, and as he got much older (over 18 months) his hair started going white! By the time he died (over two and a half years after I got him!) he was almost half silvery white.
As for the activity level, that could just be different hamsters. I have had dwarf hamsters that slept all night and were up all day, which is strange in a normally nocturnal animal. Remember that these animals were nocturnal in the wild; by attempting to tame them and keep them as housepets, we have messed with their instincts. Dwarves have been known to run over three miles a night in their natural habitat to find food. Also, even if they're from the same litter, it is possible for only one of them to have the winter white gene dominant; the other two might have it recessively.
Vun day Ve vill rule zer vold, un der Hamster grey vill be zer kink. Luk avter im gut, he iz preshus too zer racink und vill revard you later hon bye allowink yu to marry vith iz zizter, zat really kuddly ginger hamster in Henglantz green unt plesant lant.... Ve hav start, zo zer iz none stoppink uz.
Lonk Living Zer Kink
Perhaps he's a slightly different breed than the others? Or are they from the same litter?
Maybe his body clock is a little confused about the seasons. Is your house quite cool? Sometimes we tend to have the house really toasty warm in the winter and cooler in the summer, so if they are indoors all the time, then this could confuse them about what season it is. I did read somewhere that the winter white's colour change is affected by factors such as whether they have access to natural light, or whether they mainly get artificial light. This can affect whether they change colour, and how much by. It may be that as the other two hamsters are a lot less active and therefore sleeping more, they are getting less light and notice temperature changes less due to being snuggled up in their nests.
Some guesswork going on in my answer, but hope it helps!
Firstly, this isn't anything to worry about. There are many reasons for hamsters' coat colours to change, and it's usually a normal, natural thing.
There are actually two breeds of Russian Dwarf hamsters, Winter Whites and Campbells. These are genetically very similar and so they can interbreed, producing hybrids. Unfortunately this is a big problem in the hamster fancy, as it means it is now very difficult to be sure a hamster is a pure example of either species so the species may be lost. Also, several negative genetic traits are being passed between the two species, like the tendency for Campbells to get diabetes.
Winter White hamsters have coats that will change colour when certain factors in their environment change, such as light levels, temperature etc. This won't necessarily be in winter.
Also, not all Winter Whites will turn actually white, they may turn different shades of brown/grey or become mottled.
Overall it is possible that you have one Winter White and two Campbells, or that one or more of them are hybrids, or that you have three Winter Whites and only one is responding to the environmental fluctuation. Did you get these hamsters from a breeder? Are all three from the same place?
As for the level of activity during the day, again that's not too much to worry about as hamsters are individuals and their activity levels vary. They may be different ages, which would explain why one has a lot more energy than the others.
As I've mentioned, diabetes can be a problem with dwarf hamsters. If they are urinating and/or drinking a lot more than usual I'd ask your vet to test them. There's a lot you can do with their diet to improve their quality of life.
i agree you prob have different types of these hammys - as long as they look healthy and are eating i wouldnt worry ;)
Any ideas on things around the house my guinea pig can play with in there cage?
Answers:
A decent sized cardboard box for them to climb and rumage through. Cut a few holes in it so they can pop out. They also love. Sterilized and safe baby toys.
I had a guinea pig who loved to play with empty paper towel and toilet paper rolls..
paper towel or toilet paper rolls. they love to chew them and push them around the cage - just make sure to cut them length-wise so they can't get stuck!!
if you have any old windchimes, you can put those on the edge of the cage.
put a mirror on the outside of the cage where they can see it (inside as long as there are no sharp edges or anything).
crinkled up paper.
big paper towel rolls
apples and other fruits and such
or let him/her run around in a room that it guinie pig safe or get metal pen that you can find at most pet stores that are made for guinie pigs chinchilias and ferretts and such
they like to roll things. a tube or large thread spool seems to make them happy.
ummmm not paper towel or tollet paper rolls they will eat them how bout a samll pastic things..?
My pigs love paper lunch bags, Open one up in their cage and they have a BLAST.. I also give them paper or envelopes to chew up.
They love chewing on newspaper and cardboard, so old newspapers, toilet rolls, kitchen rolls, etc. are good. They also like rolling things around and having treats inside their toy that they can get out. Eg. put a piece of carrot inside a toilet roll, and bunch up the two sides so that your piggy has to chew on the roll to get to the carrot. It will keep them entertained for a while.
Any idea on the lifespan of a hairless rat?
I heard 2 once, but mine is already that age and seems extremely healthy. I don't want to seem morbid. I just want to be prepared when it is his time. I love the little guy.
Answers:
The rats that we find in pet stores are known as peachfuzz hairless (having whiskers and an almost invisible coat, but feels like velvet when you pet them), patchwork hairless (hair comes and goes throughout their lives so they look patchy), hairless (they have whiskers, they also can have hair as a baby, but it can fall out and remain bald as the baby coat falls out, or they are born hairless and remain hairless), and Double Rex ( having a curly coat but it falls out and remains bald as they age). I've had all of them except a true hairless and experienced an older then 2 years life-span with 3 out of 7.
Only breeders can breed a true hairless, a rat that has no hair what-so-ever, not even whiskers. The "true hairless" are difficult to breed because some hairless mothers have trouble lactating or producing milk for their babies. Just for this reason you will not find true hairless in a pet store.
From the website
http://www.skyclyde.com/hairlesscare.htm...
"Hairless rats are prone to Illness. Generally, hairless rats are fragile creatures in comparison to furred rats. They may have more allergies and may be more susepticle to environmental stress causing them to become ill. This is especially true of strains of hairless deriving from laboratories and passed onto the pet stores. Diseases common to laboratory and pet store hairless rats are cancer and tumors, excessive abcessing, wasting, kidney and bladder infections, heart disease, eye disease, diabetes, excessive respiratory infections, headtilt, and skin problems.
Just in the last few years, since the first publication of this article, fancy rat breeders have made great strides in breeding out health issues that formally plagued hairless rats. Now, some lines of hairless rats from reputable breeders are just as disease resistant as furred rats and can be expected to live as long, two to three-years-old. Reputable breeders eliminate tendencies for these diseases through selective breeding. They moniter their lines over time and end lines where offspring continually have health problems that crop up before two-years-old. Good breeders choose only the healthiest rats to breed. >>>>>Hairless rats not selectively bred can be expected to live 18-24 months%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;. Outcrossed hairless rats to furred lines tend to be more robust and live longer than those born to hairless parents."
However, this need not be the fate of your hairless. One of my hairless boys, Oliver, was very robust, lived well past the age of 2 years, and died mearly from the ravages of old age and not by myco or tumors as is the fate of most hairless and furred rats alike.
If your boy is healthy at 2 years of age, you can expect him to live to the ripe old age of nearly 3. In otherwords he has the same robustness as any furred rat :)
http://spazrats.tripod.com/alfabitrats.h...
Oliver - Peach Fuzz - 2 years, 8 months
Punk - Patchwork - 1 year, 5 months
Quincy - Double Rex - 2 years, 6 months
Topi - Peach Fuzz - 2 years, 2 months
http://spazrats.tripod.com/alfabitratsng...
Eve - Hairless - 1 year, 5 months
Galen - Hairless - 1 year, 8 months
Halen - Hairless - 1 year, 4 months
spazrats
"my life has gone to the rats"
A true hairless rat lives 9-18 months.
im pretty sure its the same as regular pet rats (2-3 years) as long as you keep it in room temperature. (not next to the sun, and next to a vent) she should be fine
id say 3 years with good care but two know for shere go to goggle and type in petco hamstere care sheet try a hairless guinea pig im sure they live longer
Hairless rats live as long as normal haired rats. Luckily you have a male. Males are less likely to succumb earlier. Females usually get mammary gland tumors. I'm guessing you have a box for the rat to stay in or a little towel in the cage, so the rat stays warm. That is one of the most important items for keeping hairless rats healthy. Rats are very social too.
Answers:
The rats that we find in pet stores are known as peachfuzz hairless (having whiskers and an almost invisible coat, but feels like velvet when you pet them), patchwork hairless (hair comes and goes throughout their lives so they look patchy), hairless (they have whiskers, they also can have hair as a baby, but it can fall out and remain bald as the baby coat falls out, or they are born hairless and remain hairless), and Double Rex ( having a curly coat but it falls out and remains bald as they age). I've had all of them except a true hairless and experienced an older then 2 years life-span with 3 out of 7.
Only breeders can breed a true hairless, a rat that has no hair what-so-ever, not even whiskers. The "true hairless" are difficult to breed because some hairless mothers have trouble lactating or producing milk for their babies. Just for this reason you will not find true hairless in a pet store.
From the website
http://www.skyclyde.com/hairlesscare.htm...
"Hairless rats are prone to Illness. Generally, hairless rats are fragile creatures in comparison to furred rats. They may have more allergies and may be more susepticle to environmental stress causing them to become ill. This is especially true of strains of hairless deriving from laboratories and passed onto the pet stores. Diseases common to laboratory and pet store hairless rats are cancer and tumors, excessive abcessing, wasting, kidney and bladder infections, heart disease, eye disease, diabetes, excessive respiratory infections, headtilt, and skin problems.
Just in the last few years, since the first publication of this article, fancy rat breeders have made great strides in breeding out health issues that formally plagued hairless rats. Now, some lines of hairless rats from reputable breeders are just as disease resistant as furred rats and can be expected to live as long, two to three-years-old. Reputable breeders eliminate tendencies for these diseases through selective breeding. They moniter their lines over time and end lines where offspring continually have health problems that crop up before two-years-old. Good breeders choose only the healthiest rats to breed. >>>>>Hairless rats not selectively bred can be expected to live 18-24 months%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;%26lt;. Outcrossed hairless rats to furred lines tend to be more robust and live longer than those born to hairless parents."
However, this need not be the fate of your hairless. One of my hairless boys, Oliver, was very robust, lived well past the age of 2 years, and died mearly from the ravages of old age and not by myco or tumors as is the fate of most hairless and furred rats alike.
If your boy is healthy at 2 years of age, you can expect him to live to the ripe old age of nearly 3. In otherwords he has the same robustness as any furred rat :)
http://spazrats.tripod.com/alfabitrats.h...
Oliver - Peach Fuzz - 2 years, 8 months
Punk - Patchwork - 1 year, 5 months
Quincy - Double Rex - 2 years, 6 months
Topi - Peach Fuzz - 2 years, 2 months
http://spazrats.tripod.com/alfabitratsng...
Eve - Hairless - 1 year, 5 months
Galen - Hairless - 1 year, 8 months
Halen - Hairless - 1 year, 4 months
spazrats
"my life has gone to the rats"
A true hairless rat lives 9-18 months.
im pretty sure its the same as regular pet rats (2-3 years) as long as you keep it in room temperature. (not next to the sun, and next to a vent) she should be fine
id say 3 years with good care but two know for shere go to goggle and type in petco hamstere care sheet try a hairless guinea pig im sure they live longer
Hairless rats live as long as normal haired rats. Luckily you have a male. Males are less likely to succumb earlier. Females usually get mammary gland tumors. I'm guessing you have a box for the rat to stay in or a little towel in the cage, so the rat stays warm. That is one of the most important items for keeping hairless rats healthy. Rats are very social too.
Any hamster experts here? PLEASE HELP ME!?
I need extreme help for my hamster. His name is Coco, and he's about 2 years old. His eyes look swollen, and have crust buildup around them all the time. I usually take a little bit of toilet paper, wet it, and rub his eyes with it. But now, I just looked at him a few minutes ago and his eyes are really swollen and are closed and look as though they have rashes around his eyes. He hides in corners, and looks like he has trouble moving at times, like his legs are weak. My parents (suck, they are total jerks) and said they're not taking my hamster to the vet because they said "last time we took a hamster to the vet it costs so and so." I really do want to take him to the vet but my parents won't let me. They said since hamsters live shortly, they shouldn't spend all this money on my hamster. I really don't know what to do, because it hurts me to see my hamster like this and since my parents are such jerks they can't even help him. Can someone PLEASE give me tips to help my hamster?
Answers:
I think it is better for you to use saline water and drop it into its eye. try not to use tissue paper to touch its eye.
Good Luck :)
Sabby
Change his litter. It sounds like he is having an alergic reaction to it. Do you have the cedar chips? Those are rough on little critters.
There's a product made with recycled paper that comes in pellets. See if you can find that. If you can't, then use plain clean sand, like the kind you get for kids to play in. It's not as absorbent, but it will be easier on his little face. You'll just have to clean the cage more often.
Good Luck!
C
make sure u gave him a safe home to live.. free from dangers and injuries... monitor it for a few more days.. if it get worse, u got to bring to a vet
My hamster once like that too, What I did is: I take a cotton bud stick, make it wet with clean water, clean the area around his eyes. Then after really wet you can open his eyes. Dont put back to the cage, or he gonna sleep again in the corner and crusting on the eyes. CLEAN THE CAGE, he is weak because he doesnt want to eat ( that my case) give him a favorite food a healthy one, vitamin-buy from pet-store, toys and let him play around your room/ open space a little bit. Your hamster is on deppresion, I think..his legs weak, maybe due to broken leg. Have it ever fall?
Give him love a lot of looovveee
Ok, I throw all my knowledge here, I hope your hamster ok, then...
the paper pellets that had been previosly mentioned is what i use for my cats kitty littler . works welll and i see them use it all the tim in the pet store ... its called yesterday's news... There probably is other stuff too but its all the same anyway
Oh and i buy it at wal-mar . might find it there
All i can say is to trade his bedding out for paper towels, and to research all that you can on search engines.
From my knowledge of having 5 hamsters in my house I would say your hamster is either allergic to its bedding or it has some sort of eye infection or if its very old it may be getting weaker. I would suggest you take it to the vets but seeming as your parents wont let you then try and get up a hamster website with illnesses on and treatments.
I live in the uk, dont know about you. I had a problem with one of my hamsters and it cost 拢7 to have her put to sleep so thats no more than like $15
If he gets any worst then you must take him to the vets, try anything to convice your parents
Take Your Hamster out of the cage and throughly clean it with some sort of mild soap solution or lemon juice/ vinegar/and some water. Than just put some klenx or other tissue in the bottom but not newspaper. if this still persists , you reallly should get him to a vet, if you can make a deal with you parents, split the blll 50/50 do more chore stuff like that .
I hate to say this but this is what happened to hamster when he died. His eyes were swollen and runny and he could barely walk. The best thing we could've done for him was keep him warm and make him comfortable. The vet is the best thing for him but I understand you're unable to get there. If you are able to leave your hamster for a little while, run to the pet store and get eye drops and change his bedding. The bedding could be irritating his eyes because it's not clean or if he's had an allergic reaction to the chips. If you are using cedar, please buy new bedding. The best kind is aspen. I hope your little friend feels better, good luck.
it might just have a cold :) clean his eyes and the the cage and give it alot of fluffy bedding in its favourite sleeping place feed it some fruit n veg ( but not citric fruit) and leave him to sleep and see if he gets better :)
goodluck
get some anti bacterial creme (not hand sanitizer) and just put a tiny bit on his eyes, make sure he's drinking plenty and eating right, put his food and water near him in his cage and his hamster wheel too. he needs exercise, also try going to the pet store and get some eye drops and maybe ask the workers about it, change his bedding to aspen or white paper (shredded)
use super shavin's bedding, and you may need a trip to thevet, they will accept payments.
Answers:
I think it is better for you to use saline water and drop it into its eye. try not to use tissue paper to touch its eye.
Good Luck :)
Sabby
Change his litter. It sounds like he is having an alergic reaction to it. Do you have the cedar chips? Those are rough on little critters.
There's a product made with recycled paper that comes in pellets. See if you can find that. If you can't, then use plain clean sand, like the kind you get for kids to play in. It's not as absorbent, but it will be easier on his little face. You'll just have to clean the cage more often.
Good Luck!
C
make sure u gave him a safe home to live.. free from dangers and injuries... monitor it for a few more days.. if it get worse, u got to bring to a vet
My hamster once like that too, What I did is: I take a cotton bud stick, make it wet with clean water, clean the area around his eyes. Then after really wet you can open his eyes. Dont put back to the cage, or he gonna sleep again in the corner and crusting on the eyes. CLEAN THE CAGE, he is weak because he doesnt want to eat ( that my case) give him a favorite food a healthy one, vitamin-buy from pet-store, toys and let him play around your room/ open space a little bit. Your hamster is on deppresion, I think..his legs weak, maybe due to broken leg. Have it ever fall?
Give him love a lot of looovveee
Ok, I throw all my knowledge here, I hope your hamster ok, then...
the paper pellets that had been previosly mentioned is what i use for my cats kitty littler . works welll and i see them use it all the tim in the pet store ... its called yesterday's news... There probably is other stuff too but its all the same anyway
Oh and i buy it at wal-mar . might find it there
All i can say is to trade his bedding out for paper towels, and to research all that you can on search engines.
From my knowledge of having 5 hamsters in my house I would say your hamster is either allergic to its bedding or it has some sort of eye infection or if its very old it may be getting weaker. I would suggest you take it to the vets but seeming as your parents wont let you then try and get up a hamster website with illnesses on and treatments.
I live in the uk, dont know about you. I had a problem with one of my hamsters and it cost 拢7 to have her put to sleep so thats no more than like $15
If he gets any worst then you must take him to the vets, try anything to convice your parents
Take Your Hamster out of the cage and throughly clean it with some sort of mild soap solution or lemon juice/ vinegar/and some water. Than just put some klenx or other tissue in the bottom but not newspaper. if this still persists , you reallly should get him to a vet, if you can make a deal with you parents, split the blll 50/50 do more chore stuff like that .
I hate to say this but this is what happened to hamster when he died. His eyes were swollen and runny and he could barely walk. The best thing we could've done for him was keep him warm and make him comfortable. The vet is the best thing for him but I understand you're unable to get there. If you are able to leave your hamster for a little while, run to the pet store and get eye drops and change his bedding. The bedding could be irritating his eyes because it's not clean or if he's had an allergic reaction to the chips. If you are using cedar, please buy new bedding. The best kind is aspen. I hope your little friend feels better, good luck.
it might just have a cold :) clean his eyes and the the cage and give it alot of fluffy bedding in its favourite sleeping place feed it some fruit n veg ( but not citric fruit) and leave him to sleep and see if he gets better :)
goodluck
get some anti bacterial creme (not hand sanitizer) and just put a tiny bit on his eyes, make sure he's drinking plenty and eating right, put his food and water near him in his cage and his hamster wheel too. he needs exercise, also try going to the pet store and get some eye drops and maybe ask the workers about it, change his bedding to aspen or white paper (shredded)
use super shavin's bedding, and you may need a trip to thevet, they will accept payments.
Any good ones?
i need female rat names and by da way they are gonna be grey or white and baige
Answers:
Missy
Misty
Millie
Marcie
Tarcie
Lexi
Bixbie
Dixie
Candy
Cookie
ASHton (ash is grey)
Pip
Mosi
Moya
Panya
Tiki
Taco
Tequito
Teagan
Anita
Play with these, and other names to find the ones that fit your rats! Have lots of fun with your new babies. :) :)
delphi and athena
argente[for the grey] and sandee [golden]
eirwen and fawn [ words for snow and ,. fawn]
jamal and keva[ both mean beauty]
ophra and poloma [fawn and dove]
rhianon and sparkle
amber and bianca
blush and ivory
well done for getting two and why not look in on
www.fancy-rats.co.uk
we're a right friendly bunch of ratty nutters
ratty
cracker
coca
cookie
Answers:
Missy
Misty
Millie
Marcie
Tarcie
Lexi
Bixbie
Dixie
Candy
Cookie
ASHton (ash is grey)
Pip
Mosi
Moya
Panya
Tiki
Taco
Tequito
Teagan
Anita
Play with these, and other names to find the ones that fit your rats! Have lots of fun with your new babies. :) :)
delphi and athena
argente[for the grey] and sandee [golden]
eirwen and fawn [ words for snow and ,. fawn]
jamal and keva[ both mean beauty]
ophra and poloma [fawn and dove]
rhianon and sparkle
amber and bianca
blush and ivory
well done for getting two and why not look in on
www.fancy-rats.co.uk
we're a right friendly bunch of ratty nutters
ratty
cracker
coca
cookie
Any good names for gerbils?
Answers:
hazel, emerald, cheeky
barb.
gerald
Cat food.
coco ,joe,vannila, sugar, cinnamen , pumpkin,puffy, curly . sprinklez , snickers , jellybean , star , megan, sara ,carrot pepermint, casper , merlin , angel , lusifer, peanut, marsh mellow, dixie , elmo, gizmo , gilbert , gus , fizz , hazel , minnie , donald , goofy , sue , henry , chip , hershey , kisses , junior, robot ,
Boy
Toby
Rascal
Harry
Camper
Partner
Turny
Chip
Mick
Larry
Max
Harley
Storm
Coal
Char
Charcoal
Coal
Stone
Girl
Marnie
Tarci
Marci
Janni
Kali
Helena
Beasley
Ms. Piggy
Bixbie
Lexi
Dixie
Willow
Sugar
Boots
Judy
Tina
Presley
Kili
Kiki
Nelly
Traditional
Muffin
Rex
Buddy
Maggie
Jake
Lucy
Rocky
Daisy
Molly
Tiger
Smokey
Bear
Shadow
Lady
Buster
Missy
Sammy
Sophie
Zoey
There ya go! I hope that I have helped you, and that you name her/him well.
Boy: Jace, Ryu(meaning"little dragon" in Japanese), Juke, Duke, Dudly, Luke, Raven, Charlie, Lumphy, Beef Jerky(lol), Danny, King, Prints, Chukie, Cluckers, Pouches, Pawprints, Knight, Henry, Berry, Nugget. Girl: Roxy, Muffi, Jazzmine(Jazz for short), Rya(same thing as Ryu only for a girl), Jackle(Jackie for short), Ruby, Junenipper(June Juney or Nipper for short), Sandy, Bridgett, Stevie, Daliela, Jetta, Jess, Nutmeg, Nutts, Konker, Pipsquek.
Any good hamster names?
i have a brown and white hamster and i dont know what to call him
i have had many hamsters and already used the names "oreo and hammy"
and other cute suggesttions?
Answers:
Patches
Cocoa
Banjo
Fuzzy
Cupid
Chopper
Tooth faerie. :)
what about HAMTY
Roadie
Cookie sounds good
Bubba!!!! thats a cute name =}
I had one when I was a kid named Abrahamster
Hamlet
Biscuit
hammy is my hamster's name. here are some suggestions:
sadie, riley, bubbles, bibbles, chubby, annabelle, bella, fudge, mr. fudge, maxi (short for maxime), mikey, twitchy, tinkerbell, pete, and joey. that's all i got. oooo! or creampuff. if your hamster is fluffy. that's a cute one. good luck!
Pookie or sparky r cute names
i named my hamster mercedesor how about rufus
sasha
banana
root beer
hammy returns
hammy 2
SARAH
manny
coffee
cappicheno
latte
Bacon
blubberbutt
momo
squeakers
peanut
digger
your gonna end up calling him hammy anyway so WHATS THE POINT??????////
lol
best answer??
cookie, choco, chocolate, brownie, chip, Gizmo, Bandit, Coco
danny, steven, alex
yoshi , cookie , and brownie
baloo! muffin, sammy, pogo, kitten
i have had many hamsters and already used the names "oreo and hammy"
and other cute suggesttions?
Answers:
Patches
Cocoa
Banjo
Fuzzy
Cupid
Chopper
Tooth faerie. :)
what about HAMTY
Roadie
Cookie sounds good
Bubba!!!! thats a cute name =}
I had one when I was a kid named Abrahamster
Hamlet
Biscuit
hammy is my hamster's name. here are some suggestions:
sadie, riley, bubbles, bibbles, chubby, annabelle, bella, fudge, mr. fudge, maxi (short for maxime), mikey, twitchy, tinkerbell, pete, and joey. that's all i got. oooo! or creampuff. if your hamster is fluffy. that's a cute one. good luck!
Pookie or sparky r cute names
i named my hamster mercedesor how about rufus
sasha
banana
root beer
hammy returns
hammy 2
SARAH
manny
coffee
cappicheno
latte
Bacon
blubberbutt
momo
squeakers
peanut
digger
your gonna end up calling him hammy anyway so WHATS THE POINT??????////
lol
best answer??
cookie, choco, chocolate, brownie, chip, Gizmo, Bandit, Coco
danny, steven, alex
yoshi , cookie , and brownie
baloo! muffin, sammy, pogo, kitten
Any good guinea pig vets in new york state?
i'm possibly adopting a male guinea pig from the shelter and i want to know a vet that could nuter him if i want to add a female. also could you tell me about how much it costs.
ps i know it is risky so thats why im asking.
Answers:
Try this listing (you'll have to scroll down a way):
http://www.aracnet.com/cgi-usr/seagull/v...
Yes, its risky, but a lot "less" risky if you have a vet that is familiar with cavies. The cost can range from $60 to $120 depending upon the vet and region. Very observant follow up care is a must to make sure the surgery site doesn't abcess.
Yay for adopting! ;)
YES! Here are some websites that you can check out:
http://www.talktothevet.com/veterinarian...
http://newyork.citysearch.com/profile/33...
http://www.anapsid.org/vets/newyork.html...
Sorry, this kind of a short list, but this was all that I could find! Also, I am not sure how much it cost to neuter a guinea pig. Sorry!
I hope that this helps! Thanks, and good luck!
Oh ya, thank you so much for adopting from an animal shelter! That's where I got my guinea pig ToTo from! Thanks, and GOOD LUCK!
Congrats on possibly adopting! I don't know where in NY you are but I'm enclosing a link from Guinealynx.info that lists recommended vets in each state. Hopefully one is close to you.
There is also lots of info about neutering on that site.
if getting a guinea pig, please get 2 to begin with as they are social animals needing company from their own kind. Great to adopt - why not adopt 2 boys or 2 girls - no neutering costs then!!
ps i know it is risky so thats why im asking.
Answers:
Try this listing (you'll have to scroll down a way):
http://www.aracnet.com/cgi-usr/seagull/v...
Yes, its risky, but a lot "less" risky if you have a vet that is familiar with cavies. The cost can range from $60 to $120 depending upon the vet and region. Very observant follow up care is a must to make sure the surgery site doesn't abcess.
Yay for adopting! ;)
YES! Here are some websites that you can check out:
http://www.talktothevet.com/veterinarian...
http://newyork.citysearch.com/profile/33...
http://www.anapsid.org/vets/newyork.html...
Sorry, this kind of a short list, but this was all that I could find! Also, I am not sure how much it cost to neuter a guinea pig. Sorry!
I hope that this helps! Thanks, and good luck!
Oh ya, thank you so much for adopting from an animal shelter! That's where I got my guinea pig ToTo from! Thanks, and GOOD LUCK!
Congrats on possibly adopting! I don't know where in NY you are but I'm enclosing a link from Guinealynx.info that lists recommended vets in each state. Hopefully one is close to you.
There is also lots of info about neutering on that site.
if getting a guinea pig, please get 2 to begin with as they are social animals needing company from their own kind. Great to adopt - why not adopt 2 boys or 2 girls - no neutering costs then!!
Any cute or funny hamster stories?
my hamster does the cutest things and I could give you a whole list of naught things he does that puts a smile on my face all day. What does your hamster do that makes you laugh?
Answers:
i accidentally left the cage open right before i went to bed and i woke up the next morning with my hamster sleeping on the pillow next to me.
my hampster took the top off the cage and had it slanted down so they could run out it was hanging over my bed i woke up with two hampsters and 5 babies in my bed
My hamster lights himself on fire then jumps through a hoop 2 feet off the ground before he does a little stop, drop and roll.
yes, he died but i used ta call him marshmellow, all though after about 2 days i had wished id named him houdini, the little escape artist. even 1 time i was sleeping and i felt a little tickle on my arm amd i woke up ta him crawling on it! or the time i saw a white thing moving on my floor ( hes white and brown) and he scared me so much until i went over there and figured out it was just my hamster!
Funny but sad, My friend had a hamster, in 1 of those plastic ball things that they can roll around the house, well she forgot about him and in the morning she found him on top of 1 of the floor heater vents, kinda melted/cooked with the plastic.
Sad but true.
My hampster was outside one day running free when an eagle swooped down, grabbed it and carried it off. Funniest $hit I ever saw.
Once, my brother lost his hamster and they searched everywhere for her. That night, when my brother was sleeping, the hamster was on top of him! He got so scared and started screaming!! (my brother was screaming, not the hamster)
The only Hamster story I know, from readers digest: People had a sick Hamster so they called the vet in to their house. He examined the Hamster and must have found a tender spot because the Hamster bit his finger and latched on. The Vet flung his hand out in pain and sent the Hamster flying across the room, straight at the families German Shepherd, who gobbled it down in two swallows.
well my bros ggodfathers hampster got out of its cage went onto his owners shoulder when he was makein a pbandj sandwich and fell into the penutbutter
my hamster Elvis figured out how to open his cage door. i woke up to feed him to find that he wasn't there. . .neither was my pet rat, who was in the cage beside him. . .after about an hour of searching, i looked in the last place i could think of...the bathroom. i found elvis and priscilla curled up in the toilet brush holder together.
Well, I have four hammies, and each one is so cute and funny in his or her own way. Freckles (the "big mama" of the family) does this funny little galloping burst of speed thing when she's running free in our living room each evening. She's hefty and round, like a potato, but she still can move fast! She's also very curious and adventurous, and likes to climb up inside our old sofa...she's even pulled some of the stuffing out.
The others (all boys) are really adorable when they wake up each evening and have a good stretch and then a thorough grooming.
You sound like a great hammie parent!
Answers:
i accidentally left the cage open right before i went to bed and i woke up the next morning with my hamster sleeping on the pillow next to me.
my hampster took the top off the cage and had it slanted down so they could run out it was hanging over my bed i woke up with two hampsters and 5 babies in my bed
My hamster lights himself on fire then jumps through a hoop 2 feet off the ground before he does a little stop, drop and roll.
yes, he died but i used ta call him marshmellow, all though after about 2 days i had wished id named him houdini, the little escape artist. even 1 time i was sleeping and i felt a little tickle on my arm amd i woke up ta him crawling on it! or the time i saw a white thing moving on my floor ( hes white and brown) and he scared me so much until i went over there and figured out it was just my hamster!
Funny but sad, My friend had a hamster, in 1 of those plastic ball things that they can roll around the house, well she forgot about him and in the morning she found him on top of 1 of the floor heater vents, kinda melted/cooked with the plastic.
Sad but true.
My hampster was outside one day running free when an eagle swooped down, grabbed it and carried it off. Funniest $hit I ever saw.
Once, my brother lost his hamster and they searched everywhere for her. That night, when my brother was sleeping, the hamster was on top of him! He got so scared and started screaming!! (my brother was screaming, not the hamster)
The only Hamster story I know, from readers digest: People had a sick Hamster so they called the vet in to their house. He examined the Hamster and must have found a tender spot because the Hamster bit his finger and latched on. The Vet flung his hand out in pain and sent the Hamster flying across the room, straight at the families German Shepherd, who gobbled it down in two swallows.
well my bros ggodfathers hampster got out of its cage went onto his owners shoulder when he was makein a pbandj sandwich and fell into the penutbutter
my hamster Elvis figured out how to open his cage door. i woke up to feed him to find that he wasn't there. . .neither was my pet rat, who was in the cage beside him. . .after about an hour of searching, i looked in the last place i could think of...the bathroom. i found elvis and priscilla curled up in the toilet brush holder together.
Well, I have four hammies, and each one is so cute and funny in his or her own way. Freckles (the "big mama" of the family) does this funny little galloping burst of speed thing when she's running free in our living room each evening. She's hefty and round, like a potato, but she still can move fast! She's also very curious and adventurous, and likes to climb up inside our old sofa...she's even pulled some of the stuffing out.
The others (all boys) are really adorable when they wake up each evening and have a good stretch and then a thorough grooming.
You sound like a great hammie parent!
Any cool spunky punk hamster names?
hamster names for a drawf hamster??
black,brown,white???
any cool punk names?
Answers:
i've always really wanted a little rodent named ickarus and call it icky. it's just fitting, because it is after all a rodent... but charming none the less.
(Puggie)
It use to be my class pets (hamster) name.
dweasel
Perhaps its not punk, but I've always wanted a hamster named Spartacus.
How about Sid or Spike? Or for a girl Banshee?
spunky is good. chip, adora, asia, bacchus, cy, ickiss.. plenty more on the website http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/namelists... sure they are for rats, but they will work for hamsters as well
stains!
fuzz butt
buttons
brown
Xzibit
Revolto
Domino
Calypso
Eminem.
Jay
JZ (LOL)
BJ
JD
JT
shadow
spitty. coolio, rex
Scratch, Ash, Ben, Guy, Rock, Rush-Boy
Lily, Minnie, Flo, Scarlett, Violet(Vi), Deedee-Girl
spunky
black,brown,white???
any cool punk names?
Answers:
i've always really wanted a little rodent named ickarus and call it icky. it's just fitting, because it is after all a rodent... but charming none the less.
(Puggie)
It use to be my class pets (hamster) name.
dweasel
Perhaps its not punk, but I've always wanted a hamster named Spartacus.
How about Sid or Spike? Or for a girl Banshee?
spunky is good. chip, adora, asia, bacchus, cy, ickiss.. plenty more on the website http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/namelists... sure they are for rats, but they will work for hamsters as well
stains!
fuzz butt
buttons
brown
Xzibit
Revolto
Domino
Calypso
Eminem.
Jay
JZ (LOL)
BJ
JD
JT
shadow
spitty. coolio, rex
Scratch, Ash, Ben, Guy, Rock, Rush-Boy
Lily, Minnie, Flo, Scarlett, Violet(Vi), Deedee-Girl
spunky
Any advice on raising a baby bunny?
My bunny just had babies a couple of days ago and she has neglected them completely. So far all of them have died except one and i need advice on how to keep it warm and feed it. When we found the baby, it had its mother's hair wrapped tightly around its front paw cutting off the circulation. We removed the hair but the paw is still swollen and very red. Can the baby bunny still keep its front paw? The little thing is only 2 or 3 days old. Any advice or help would be nice. Thanks.
Answers:
Is your doe a first time mom? Most of the time a new mother rabbit will have a lot of deaths in the litter because she doesn't know how to properly care for them. Call a vet. Also did the doe pluck a lot of fur? If she did her fur is the best thing to keep the kit warm. Do you have a nest box for them? Here is a website that I have found that might help you.
http://www.welshrabbitry.com/birth.html#... This website has some excellent information on how to care for the doe and the kits. The majority of websites that I have read states that it is not a good idea to try to hand feed baby rabbits because the majority of them do not survive. Another option would be to hold the doe and have someone help the kit to nurse her. The article that I have stated above goes into great detail with these methods. Best of Luck to you and your rabbits I hope this helps you.
Poor thing! I suggest bringing it to a vet. This baby sounds very vulnerable. I've had a friend try to take care of a few baby bunnies by himself and they all died. Also, call a wildlife preserve, if there's one near you. Your bunny is a pet, and they may refuse to see it, but may have some ideas.
Try wrapping the baby in a warm blanket to keep it warm. it sounds like someone has handled the babies and mom has rejected them.
Give it some solution of glucose and luke warm water with a little rescue remedy in [by syringe ] in small doses , directing the liquid down the cheek sid of the baby. be careful not to give them too much at a time This should help to deal with the shock. If you can find a rabbit breeder in your area who can look after it more professionally and see if they can save it. Good luck with your bunny
You can wrap it to keep it warm enough, but it must eat a lot when it's little like that. You can get a powder milk mix and a really small bottle to feed kittens with, this will work with the bunny for feeding! If it don't eat it don't live!
The bunny needs its mom until it is atleast 8 weeks old. Hopefully the mom will realize that the baby is infact her offspring and she will care for it. Without its mother's milk, the bunny is hopeless. I hate to say it and it's very unfortunate but that is how it is. Do not handle the baby. The mom will only reject it more.
Well i would try to not take it to the vets for a couple of days and if it gets worse then i would take it. Try and keep it warm
by giving it the fur that the mum should have produced and if it wont drink then get a water bottle and open its mouth. Maybe the mum rejected them because you touched them when they were too young the, mum can get very protective sometimes even eat the babies.
I am a rabbit breeder so here is what you can do:
take them inside and keep them in a cardboard box.
don't handle them more than neccisary even to clean the box.
feed them through an eye dropper regular cow or goats milk.
if you need more info you can ask me @"this isnt exactly a question but i can answer you rabbit ones!
Answers:
Is your doe a first time mom? Most of the time a new mother rabbit will have a lot of deaths in the litter because she doesn't know how to properly care for them. Call a vet. Also did the doe pluck a lot of fur? If she did her fur is the best thing to keep the kit warm. Do you have a nest box for them? Here is a website that I have found that might help you.
http://www.welshrabbitry.com/birth.html#... This website has some excellent information on how to care for the doe and the kits. The majority of websites that I have read states that it is not a good idea to try to hand feed baby rabbits because the majority of them do not survive. Another option would be to hold the doe and have someone help the kit to nurse her. The article that I have stated above goes into great detail with these methods. Best of Luck to you and your rabbits I hope this helps you.
Poor thing! I suggest bringing it to a vet. This baby sounds very vulnerable. I've had a friend try to take care of a few baby bunnies by himself and they all died. Also, call a wildlife preserve, if there's one near you. Your bunny is a pet, and they may refuse to see it, but may have some ideas.
Try wrapping the baby in a warm blanket to keep it warm. it sounds like someone has handled the babies and mom has rejected them.
Give it some solution of glucose and luke warm water with a little rescue remedy in [by syringe ] in small doses , directing the liquid down the cheek sid of the baby. be careful not to give them too much at a time This should help to deal with the shock. If you can find a rabbit breeder in your area who can look after it more professionally and see if they can save it. Good luck with your bunny
You can wrap it to keep it warm enough, but it must eat a lot when it's little like that. You can get a powder milk mix and a really small bottle to feed kittens with, this will work with the bunny for feeding! If it don't eat it don't live!
The bunny needs its mom until it is atleast 8 weeks old. Hopefully the mom will realize that the baby is infact her offspring and she will care for it. Without its mother's milk, the bunny is hopeless. I hate to say it and it's very unfortunate but that is how it is. Do not handle the baby. The mom will only reject it more.
Well i would try to not take it to the vets for a couple of days and if it gets worse then i would take it. Try and keep it warm
by giving it the fur that the mum should have produced and if it wont drink then get a water bottle and open its mouth. Maybe the mum rejected them because you touched them when they were too young the, mum can get very protective sometimes even eat the babies.
I am a rabbit breeder so here is what you can do:
take them inside and keep them in a cardboard box.
don't handle them more than neccisary even to clean the box.
feed them through an eye dropper regular cow or goats milk.
if you need more info you can ask me @"this isnt exactly a question but i can answer you rabbit ones!
Any advice for taking care of a pregnant guinea pig? Petsmart sold us two "females"..only now one is pregnant
After looking up some info on the net, I'm pretty sure the non-pregnant one is male. I'm going to get the store to help place the babies, but I need to take care of them until they are weaned. I'm also worried about all the compications that guniea's can have with pregnancy and birth! Any advice?
Answers:
That sucks about Petsmart. I actually work there and am very adamant about these things, and it angers me to hear that this happened, especially since I'm a guinea pig owner myself! Personally, I would NOT let the store place the babies. They most likely have their own best interests in mind, and not the animals, judging by how they housed a male with a female.
Definitely check out Guinea Lynx - it's the most comprehensive site you can find. Not only do they have all the information you'd need, they also have a forum where you can post about the babies - it's possible you'll find an owner through them. You can also try Cavy Spirit. Good luck!
I had a hampster that ate her babies when I was a kid.. so just watch the guinea carefully to make sure she dosent go cannabalistic.
We raised Guinea Pigs and they are so cute when they are born. They are a miniature version, they have their fur, eat food and are so much fun!
The parents take good care of them and your job is to keep the cage clean, clean food and water and enjoy them. We never had any difficulties during the births. The dad helps as much as the moms. Just enjoy the excitement of the cute babies along with the parents.
As long as your Guinea Pig's healthy, cannibalism shouldn't be something to worry about. Animals only eat their young when they are malnourished, most of the time.
First thing, I'd place your male and female away from each other in seperate cages. I don't know if you plan on keeping all of these babies, but maybe you could keep one of the female babies and have Petsmart place the male along with the other pups in homes. So you'd have no fear of another accidental litter.
To get your girl ready for pregnancy, I'd give her healthy, high-protein foods and make sure she's getting plenty of vitamin C. Female GPs can run into some nasty birth problems, so keep close eye on her.
Best of luck! :)
Make sure your female has plenty of healthy food and water, and gets enough vitamin c (either give her orange wedges or get a vitamin supplement for guinea pigs from the pet store). when she is getting close to giving birth, she will really want to nest so give her shredded newspaper or hay, or plenty of clean shavings to nest in. In my experience, guinea pigs usually do well giving birth and raising their babies, but make sure she is separate from the male when she is going to give birth, and that she is in a quiet low-stress environment . The birth itself should go quickly, and i would expect between one and six babies. The mother will clean them after they are born, and should start nursing them soon. She will take care of the babies for you as long as she has good food, you can supplement her guinea pig pellets with fresh fruit and veggies. Things can go wrong, if anything seem wrong or the birth seems to take too long, or any of the babies isn't quite right GO SEE THE VET! Guinea pigs are delicate creatures and things can be very serious for them quickly. Here is a source I found that should help you : http://www.comfycavies.com/care/breeding...
And, please keep the male you have in a separate cage from the female from now on, there are a lot of guinea pigs and though they are cute, there are more of them than good homes, so breeding your pets is a bad idea. See this site for info on why: http://www.cavyspirit.com/breeding.htm...
Don't touch any of the babies! Other than that, just give the mother to be plenty of nutrients and water, maybe some healthy fruits or a nutritional additive. They shouldn't have too many problems, you should be able to just let the mother do her thing. Good luck!
My guinea pig Lola has given birth 2 times already and got pregnant at an early age of 4 months! But she never went cannibal. She carefully cleaned her pups and nursed the lil' ones. So don't worry about your cavy eating her youngs. That is not their nature unlike the hamsters.
If you don't mind having many cavies then I won't suggest placing them for adoption. It would be nice to wean them off about until they are almost 2 months. I have personally given my little ones to my friends and relatives who I know will love my cavies as much as I have when they were 2 months already.
Complications arise when your mommy cavy is malnourished. So give her enough greens and Vit. C (from tomatoes) in her daily munchies. Also give a lot of fresh hay.
As much as possible, give her ample room to move around because the later part of her pregnany (almost around the 2nd month of pregnancy) will make her finicky. She will move around, looking for nice and cozy place to hide herself. Give her used clothes you can bundle but not big enough to suffocate her. An old small rag will be fine so she can settle on it when she wants comfort. She will be rather cranky at that point so watch those little fingers of yours getting "accidentally" snapped on. She thinks it's a baby carrot!
Enjoy your cavies! Give them love because they are worth it...
P.S. My daughter teases me that I am a "grandmom" now of 8 cavies (all Lola's offspings). Her not-so-baby Fluffy is on her way too...Uh--oh. I will need a bigger cage!
Your pig will not eat the babies. But Female Guinea pigs can have a lot of trouble during birth and need to be watched closely, they can die easily. We have a rescue and medical site for Guinea Pigs called Guinea Lynx, you can get top notch advice from there and reasons why you should never buy from a pet store, especially Petsmart or Petco. Most of the time you will find those pigs are infested with mites,and it can kill them. They buy from breeders, and the pig is usually sick with many problems, or as in your case pregnant.
Go back to Petsmart and tell them they sold you a male, they only sale female pigs. Demand they pay for vet bills for the pregnant pig, and they usually will so you won't cause a scene. Baby guinea pigs are born already to eat solid foods, and the mother will nurse them until she weens. But you must remove the male baby, if she has any, in 4 weeks or he will get his own mother pregnant.
And just because people worked in a pet store , well that don't mean squat! The only Vets who know about Guinea Pigs is an Exotics vet. Guinea Lynx is a free site wth free advice and a listof pig Vets in any area of the country!
Good Luck!
Remeber
Guinealynx.com
Try to keep the babies and the mother aqway from the male. Make sure their bedding stays clean, they keep fresh water and food. They should be fine. If need be take them to the vet just to get checked out.
if u have the male still in with the female take him out now as guineas mate again as soon as the female has given birth(at nite)i didnt realise my female was pregnnt so by he time she had had them the male had already mated again and she died giving birth..they are fully furred nd eyes open and are able to eat normally when they are born but plz take the male out now xx
Usually a pet store piggy is young enough that the risk of complications is less. I also got a pregnant piggy from a pet store (we didn't know and they didn't know at the time). Anyway, mine gave birth and everything was fine. Make sure you give her lots of hay (timothy, not alfalfa or a mix is ok, but too much alfalfa gives them too much calcium.) She needs hay for fiber. Also, keep her at a comfortable temperature (for any pig really not just a pregnant one). They are sensitive to extreme temps. Baby piggies are great. They can eat adult food as soon as they are born! They still need mommy's milk though.
I agree with almost all of these answers. Keep on researching, you're on the right track. I would just like to let you know that you can touch the baby cavies after they are born. Guinea pigs are not like hamsters, they don't really mind.
Answers:
That sucks about Petsmart. I actually work there and am very adamant about these things, and it angers me to hear that this happened, especially since I'm a guinea pig owner myself! Personally, I would NOT let the store place the babies. They most likely have their own best interests in mind, and not the animals, judging by how they housed a male with a female.
Definitely check out Guinea Lynx - it's the most comprehensive site you can find. Not only do they have all the information you'd need, they also have a forum where you can post about the babies - it's possible you'll find an owner through them. You can also try Cavy Spirit. Good luck!
I had a hampster that ate her babies when I was a kid.. so just watch the guinea carefully to make sure she dosent go cannabalistic.
We raised Guinea Pigs and they are so cute when they are born. They are a miniature version, they have their fur, eat food and are so much fun!
The parents take good care of them and your job is to keep the cage clean, clean food and water and enjoy them. We never had any difficulties during the births. The dad helps as much as the moms. Just enjoy the excitement of the cute babies along with the parents.
As long as your Guinea Pig's healthy, cannibalism shouldn't be something to worry about. Animals only eat their young when they are malnourished, most of the time.
First thing, I'd place your male and female away from each other in seperate cages. I don't know if you plan on keeping all of these babies, but maybe you could keep one of the female babies and have Petsmart place the male along with the other pups in homes. So you'd have no fear of another accidental litter.
To get your girl ready for pregnancy, I'd give her healthy, high-protein foods and make sure she's getting plenty of vitamin C. Female GPs can run into some nasty birth problems, so keep close eye on her.
Best of luck! :)
Make sure your female has plenty of healthy food and water, and gets enough vitamin c (either give her orange wedges or get a vitamin supplement for guinea pigs from the pet store). when she is getting close to giving birth, she will really want to nest so give her shredded newspaper or hay, or plenty of clean shavings to nest in. In my experience, guinea pigs usually do well giving birth and raising their babies, but make sure she is separate from the male when she is going to give birth, and that she is in a quiet low-stress environment . The birth itself should go quickly, and i would expect between one and six babies. The mother will clean them after they are born, and should start nursing them soon. She will take care of the babies for you as long as she has good food, you can supplement her guinea pig pellets with fresh fruit and veggies. Things can go wrong, if anything seem wrong or the birth seems to take too long, or any of the babies isn't quite right GO SEE THE VET! Guinea pigs are delicate creatures and things can be very serious for them quickly. Here is a source I found that should help you : http://www.comfycavies.com/care/breeding...
And, please keep the male you have in a separate cage from the female from now on, there are a lot of guinea pigs and though they are cute, there are more of them than good homes, so breeding your pets is a bad idea. See this site for info on why: http://www.cavyspirit.com/breeding.htm...
Don't touch any of the babies! Other than that, just give the mother to be plenty of nutrients and water, maybe some healthy fruits or a nutritional additive. They shouldn't have too many problems, you should be able to just let the mother do her thing. Good luck!
My guinea pig Lola has given birth 2 times already and got pregnant at an early age of 4 months! But she never went cannibal. She carefully cleaned her pups and nursed the lil' ones. So don't worry about your cavy eating her youngs. That is not their nature unlike the hamsters.
If you don't mind having many cavies then I won't suggest placing them for adoption. It would be nice to wean them off about until they are almost 2 months. I have personally given my little ones to my friends and relatives who I know will love my cavies as much as I have when they were 2 months already.
Complications arise when your mommy cavy is malnourished. So give her enough greens and Vit. C (from tomatoes) in her daily munchies. Also give a lot of fresh hay.
As much as possible, give her ample room to move around because the later part of her pregnany (almost around the 2nd month of pregnancy) will make her finicky. She will move around, looking for nice and cozy place to hide herself. Give her used clothes you can bundle but not big enough to suffocate her. An old small rag will be fine so she can settle on it when she wants comfort. She will be rather cranky at that point so watch those little fingers of yours getting "accidentally" snapped on. She thinks it's a baby carrot!
Enjoy your cavies! Give them love because they are worth it...
P.S. My daughter teases me that I am a "grandmom" now of 8 cavies (all Lola's offspings). Her not-so-baby Fluffy is on her way too...Uh--oh. I will need a bigger cage!
Your pig will not eat the babies. But Female Guinea pigs can have a lot of trouble during birth and need to be watched closely, they can die easily. We have a rescue and medical site for Guinea Pigs called Guinea Lynx, you can get top notch advice from there and reasons why you should never buy from a pet store, especially Petsmart or Petco. Most of the time you will find those pigs are infested with mites,and it can kill them. They buy from breeders, and the pig is usually sick with many problems, or as in your case pregnant.
Go back to Petsmart and tell them they sold you a male, they only sale female pigs. Demand they pay for vet bills for the pregnant pig, and they usually will so you won't cause a scene. Baby guinea pigs are born already to eat solid foods, and the mother will nurse them until she weens. But you must remove the male baby, if she has any, in 4 weeks or he will get his own mother pregnant.
And just because people worked in a pet store , well that don't mean squat! The only Vets who know about Guinea Pigs is an Exotics vet. Guinea Lynx is a free site wth free advice and a listof pig Vets in any area of the country!
Good Luck!
Remeber
Guinealynx.com
Try to keep the babies and the mother aqway from the male. Make sure their bedding stays clean, they keep fresh water and food. They should be fine. If need be take them to the vet just to get checked out.
if u have the male still in with the female take him out now as guineas mate again as soon as the female has given birth(at nite)i didnt realise my female was pregnnt so by he time she had had them the male had already mated again and she died giving birth..they are fully furred nd eyes open and are able to eat normally when they are born but plz take the male out now xx
Usually a pet store piggy is young enough that the risk of complications is less. I also got a pregnant piggy from a pet store (we didn't know and they didn't know at the time). Anyway, mine gave birth and everything was fine. Make sure you give her lots of hay (timothy, not alfalfa or a mix is ok, but too much alfalfa gives them too much calcium.) She needs hay for fiber. Also, keep her at a comfortable temperature (for any pig really not just a pregnant one). They are sensitive to extreme temps. Baby piggies are great. They can eat adult food as soon as they are born! They still need mommy's milk though.
I agree with almost all of these answers. Keep on researching, you're on the right track. I would just like to let you know that you can touch the baby cavies after they are born. Guinea pigs are not like hamsters, they don't really mind.
Any advice for someone looking to own a hamster or gerbil?
Hello! My husband and I would like a pet, unfortunately our apartment does not allow cats or dogs. We were thinking of geting 2 gerbils or 2 hamsters. Does anyone have any advice on owning either of these pets, their habitats, their food, anything?
Thank you so much in advance for all of your help!
Answers:
Yes I do:
First, if you want to get two of them, get two gerbils, not two hamsters. Hamsters are known for fighting more even though gerbils fight sometimes too. Gerbils should always have a friend in their cage because they get lonely. Also, hamsters are more nocturnal them gerbils. Hamsters are very lazy during the day while gerbils are up and ready to play.
Cages: You can always get those cute little tube cages they sell for pocket pets at the pet store, but personally, I don't like those. They make a lot of noise. I prefer an old fish tank (a 10g is a good size) They are cheaper too since they can't hold fish in them any more. With hamsters, you must change their fluff once a week but with gerbils you only have to change it once every three weeks.
Bedding: You can buy bedding at your pet store, Care Fresh is what I use. Also make sure you have another bedding thing in their for them to sleep in. I put old socks (clean of coarse) and towels in there for them to shred up.
Food and water: Pretty basic, a water bottle, change it every day, fill the food dish with hamster or gerbil food and refill when empty. With gerbils, don't refill the bowl until it is entirely empty. Gerbils will pick out the fattening, bad for you seeds first and not eat the healthy stuff until all the good stuff is gone. Make sure they eat ALL of the seeds in the bowl before you give them more.
Exercise: Have a wheel in the cage at all times. Hamsters and gerbils will run on them all night and day.
Thats about it.
yeah do you want mine? He looks like that retarted Yahoo hampster but he has red eyes. His name is Mr. Boston. Give me your address so I can send him to you in the mail, even if its a P.O.Box, I need to get rid of him.
I am glad that you want a hamster (or a gerbil!). I have not owned any gerbils in my lifetime but I have two dwarf hamsters now and have had two other hamsters before! Here are some tips to keeping them healthy and how to pick the right one!
1. When buying a hamster, make sure that he is awake, his eyes are clear, his ears are clear, and that the cage that he is in, doesn't look dirty, and that the water is clean.
2. Hamsters need to be let out of their cage at least for 10 minutes each day. Hamster balls are great. They let the hamster get the run of the house and are fairly cheap.
3. I would recommend getting only 1 hamster (unless you want to keep them in seperate cages!). They can fight or produce unwanted litters of young hamsters.
4. Hamsters can live to be 2-5 years of age. The smaller hamsters (like the dwarfs!) tend to live longer then the bigger sized hamsters (like the golden hamster).
5. Hamsters love to eat food! They can eat many different types of veggies and fruits, such as: apple slices, oranges, strawberries, carrots, lettuce and more! Most of the time, a hamster will "hoard" it's food. That means that the hamster will take some food from the food bowl and stuff food (as much as can fit!) into it's cheecks, and then go back to their sleeping area. There, they will "unstuff" all of the food that is in their cheecks and safe some food for later!
6. You can get two different types of hamster cages. You can get the terrieum type of cages (like the ones for lizards!) and put bedding in them, a wheel and toys. Or, you can get a normal cage made speicaly for hamsters, gerbils and sometimes mice!
I hope that this helps! Have a fun time choosing which pet you will get!
If you want two get two gerbils.. Hamsters are more solitaire animals and they'll end up fighting and you'll need to seperate them.
Hamsters are noturnal, they definately need a wheel to run on. They're not nearly as intelligent. You can get a gerbil or a rat not to poo on you but a hamster probably always will.
Now I don't know how much you know about gerbils, but they're apparently really great pets. I've never actually owned one. They do really like to dig so you'd be better off with an aquarium with a lid rather then a rodent cage. They're really smart and apparently have a lot of personality. They also sleep at night, which is nice because then you can watch them in the day and it's not like your messing up their sleep habits.
If I was you, I'd go with rats. Rats are super smart, you can train them really easily. I have 2 rats that only go to the bathroom in their cage. I can let them run around my room and they know to come when I tap their cage. They're definately my favorite rodent. The only problem with mine is they chew alot. However any rodent you get will probably chew quite a bit. The problem with rats is they're nocturnal and they live in my room. So while I'm trying to sleep they're keeping me up by chewing on their cage. I've spent probably 60 dollars trying to find something else for them to chew on and I've had no luck.
As far as food, the best thing is to buy little pellets rather then the seed mixture just make sure it's got whatever you decide to go with name on the front. It's generally cheaper and its better for them because they cant just pick out what they like. Pretty much anything they could have potential to eat in the wild you can give them for a treat just try to make sure there's not too much sugar in them. You'll learn pretty quick what they like and what they dont like.
for hamsters if u wanted to get 2 hamsters u would need to get dwarf hamsters becuz Syrain hamsters ( more commonly known as teddy bear hamsters) will fight to the death if they are put together! Hamsters are soooo cute and sooo sweet and very lovable! They are soo much fun to have and they don't cost a whole bunch of money either! If you got a hamster you woud need to change its food every other day or untill it gets empty, change its water bottle everyday, clean out where he/she goes to the bathroom everyday ( only if he sleeps where he goes) Clean the cage once a week or more if it starts to smell, handle him/her everyday! That basically is all u do!! You should use Carefresh because cedar or Pine shavings can kill your hamster so i would use Carefresh! They keep there selves clean so u don't need to wash them or anything! Once you get your hamster right away put it into the cage and leave him/her in there for 24 to 48 hours! Then you can start to hand feed him/her and pet him/her and in a couple of days after that you should be able to hold your hamster! They love sunflower seeds, carrots and apples! If you get a hamster don't give them to much fruits or vegatbles because they can get sick from it! Don't feed the hamster the skin of the apples and cut the apples and carrots up small! They are sooo cute and so much fun! Sure they bite it may hurt but it doesn't hurt that much and once your hamster gets used to you he/she won't bite you! Oh and before you leave to get your hamster you should have the cage food and water ready! My hamster loves this food called vita-vittles! You can buy it at Petco! You should also have some shredded up purple cabbage in the cage before you go ( just a few shreds would be good) because it reduces the stress! I don't know anything about gerbils but my dad had one and it bit him in the thumb and there was a lot of blood! He has had lots of hamsters and none of them have ever done that to him!! My hamster only bit me twice because i forgot to wash my hands and i just put his food in! Remember to wash your hands before you play with your hamster! Hamsters are nocturnal and get up during the evening! My hamster gets up at 7:40pm and maybe a little bit later depending on how long he stayed in his plastic ball that he runs around in! For the cage you should get a plastic and a metal cage because it has very good air ventalation and glass cages don't give much air ventalation! Hope i helped! And if u have any hamster questions please email me!
hamster curl up in to litle cutie balls and roll around ( thats wat mine did i couldnt stop laughing) gerbils jump high they have long tails both of them can escape out of a hamster/gerbil/ECT. ball so u have to tape it. AND NEVER LET YOUR HANDS SMELL LIKE food or the hamster or gerbil with bite u. dont feed them junk food, veggies,fruits,seeds are good for them. dont use wood bedding becuase that isnt good for them.i just dont noe why the pet store used them but my hammy is fine =D and make sure u check out the pet if u see anything out of normal then u dont buy it O_o
hamsters, like the syrian are solitary, so you only need one, and they are alot of fu, gerbils are more nervous types and i don't care for them as pets, you can go to petsmart and get everything you need. i like the crittertrail cages, and the super shavin's bedding, low on oilsand dust, and they have food and exercise balls to run in out of the cage. they are nocturnal, so be prepared to move them out of the room you sleep in, and they eat fresh vegs and fruits as well as their mix, the cage will come with a bowl and water bottle, so you don't need to buy those extra.
DO NOT GET A GERBIL!!! it is pretty rare for them to be nive but if they arent nice then they are devils :0( but hampsters are hardly never mean.!!
Do not get two gerbils! When I was younger we had two in the same cage, and one day we came home from school to 1 1/2 gerbils. NOT pretty! Our vet said they can become carniverous!
We've had one hamster at a time for a number of years now, and they've been quite happy. The main thing to remember, after the obvious food/water/cage stuff, is that if you want them to be friendly and social you have to take them out and hold them and play with them on a regular basis. That way they get used to your smell and to being held, and they won't bite or hide from you. We didn't know this with our first hamster, and once he bit us each once (and drew blood) we stopped picking him up. Since he wasn't socialized he was very hard to catch and control when we needed to clean the cage. ..but other than that they make very cute, quiet pets.
Thank you so much in advance for all of your help!
Answers:
Yes I do:
First, if you want to get two of them, get two gerbils, not two hamsters. Hamsters are known for fighting more even though gerbils fight sometimes too. Gerbils should always have a friend in their cage because they get lonely. Also, hamsters are more nocturnal them gerbils. Hamsters are very lazy during the day while gerbils are up and ready to play.
Cages: You can always get those cute little tube cages they sell for pocket pets at the pet store, but personally, I don't like those. They make a lot of noise. I prefer an old fish tank (a 10g is a good size) They are cheaper too since they can't hold fish in them any more. With hamsters, you must change their fluff once a week but with gerbils you only have to change it once every three weeks.
Bedding: You can buy bedding at your pet store, Care Fresh is what I use. Also make sure you have another bedding thing in their for them to sleep in. I put old socks (clean of coarse) and towels in there for them to shred up.
Food and water: Pretty basic, a water bottle, change it every day, fill the food dish with hamster or gerbil food and refill when empty. With gerbils, don't refill the bowl until it is entirely empty. Gerbils will pick out the fattening, bad for you seeds first and not eat the healthy stuff until all the good stuff is gone. Make sure they eat ALL of the seeds in the bowl before you give them more.
Exercise: Have a wheel in the cage at all times. Hamsters and gerbils will run on them all night and day.
Thats about it.
yeah do you want mine? He looks like that retarted Yahoo hampster but he has red eyes. His name is Mr. Boston. Give me your address so I can send him to you in the mail, even if its a P.O.Box, I need to get rid of him.
I am glad that you want a hamster (or a gerbil!). I have not owned any gerbils in my lifetime but I have two dwarf hamsters now and have had two other hamsters before! Here are some tips to keeping them healthy and how to pick the right one!
1. When buying a hamster, make sure that he is awake, his eyes are clear, his ears are clear, and that the cage that he is in, doesn't look dirty, and that the water is clean.
2. Hamsters need to be let out of their cage at least for 10 minutes each day. Hamster balls are great. They let the hamster get the run of the house and are fairly cheap.
3. I would recommend getting only 1 hamster (unless you want to keep them in seperate cages!). They can fight or produce unwanted litters of young hamsters.
4. Hamsters can live to be 2-5 years of age. The smaller hamsters (like the dwarfs!) tend to live longer then the bigger sized hamsters (like the golden hamster).
5. Hamsters love to eat food! They can eat many different types of veggies and fruits, such as: apple slices, oranges, strawberries, carrots, lettuce and more! Most of the time, a hamster will "hoard" it's food. That means that the hamster will take some food from the food bowl and stuff food (as much as can fit!) into it's cheecks, and then go back to their sleeping area. There, they will "unstuff" all of the food that is in their cheecks and safe some food for later!
6. You can get two different types of hamster cages. You can get the terrieum type of cages (like the ones for lizards!) and put bedding in them, a wheel and toys. Or, you can get a normal cage made speicaly for hamsters, gerbils and sometimes mice!
I hope that this helps! Have a fun time choosing which pet you will get!
If you want two get two gerbils.. Hamsters are more solitaire animals and they'll end up fighting and you'll need to seperate them.
Hamsters are noturnal, they definately need a wheel to run on. They're not nearly as intelligent. You can get a gerbil or a rat not to poo on you but a hamster probably always will.
Now I don't know how much you know about gerbils, but they're apparently really great pets. I've never actually owned one. They do really like to dig so you'd be better off with an aquarium with a lid rather then a rodent cage. They're really smart and apparently have a lot of personality. They also sleep at night, which is nice because then you can watch them in the day and it's not like your messing up their sleep habits.
If I was you, I'd go with rats. Rats are super smart, you can train them really easily. I have 2 rats that only go to the bathroom in their cage. I can let them run around my room and they know to come when I tap their cage. They're definately my favorite rodent. The only problem with mine is they chew alot. However any rodent you get will probably chew quite a bit. The problem with rats is they're nocturnal and they live in my room. So while I'm trying to sleep they're keeping me up by chewing on their cage. I've spent probably 60 dollars trying to find something else for them to chew on and I've had no luck.
As far as food, the best thing is to buy little pellets rather then the seed mixture just make sure it's got whatever you decide to go with name on the front. It's generally cheaper and its better for them because they cant just pick out what they like. Pretty much anything they could have potential to eat in the wild you can give them for a treat just try to make sure there's not too much sugar in them. You'll learn pretty quick what they like and what they dont like.
for hamsters if u wanted to get 2 hamsters u would need to get dwarf hamsters becuz Syrain hamsters ( more commonly known as teddy bear hamsters) will fight to the death if they are put together! Hamsters are soooo cute and sooo sweet and very lovable! They are soo much fun to have and they don't cost a whole bunch of money either! If you got a hamster you woud need to change its food every other day or untill it gets empty, change its water bottle everyday, clean out where he/she goes to the bathroom everyday ( only if he sleeps where he goes) Clean the cage once a week or more if it starts to smell, handle him/her everyday! That basically is all u do!! You should use Carefresh because cedar or Pine shavings can kill your hamster so i would use Carefresh! They keep there selves clean so u don't need to wash them or anything! Once you get your hamster right away put it into the cage and leave him/her in there for 24 to 48 hours! Then you can start to hand feed him/her and pet him/her and in a couple of days after that you should be able to hold your hamster! They love sunflower seeds, carrots and apples! If you get a hamster don't give them to much fruits or vegatbles because they can get sick from it! Don't feed the hamster the skin of the apples and cut the apples and carrots up small! They are sooo cute and so much fun! Sure they bite it may hurt but it doesn't hurt that much and once your hamster gets used to you he/she won't bite you! Oh and before you leave to get your hamster you should have the cage food and water ready! My hamster loves this food called vita-vittles! You can buy it at Petco! You should also have some shredded up purple cabbage in the cage before you go ( just a few shreds would be good) because it reduces the stress! I don't know anything about gerbils but my dad had one and it bit him in the thumb and there was a lot of blood! He has had lots of hamsters and none of them have ever done that to him!! My hamster only bit me twice because i forgot to wash my hands and i just put his food in! Remember to wash your hands before you play with your hamster! Hamsters are nocturnal and get up during the evening! My hamster gets up at 7:40pm and maybe a little bit later depending on how long he stayed in his plastic ball that he runs around in! For the cage you should get a plastic and a metal cage because it has very good air ventalation and glass cages don't give much air ventalation! Hope i helped! And if u have any hamster questions please email me!
hamster curl up in to litle cutie balls and roll around ( thats wat mine did i couldnt stop laughing) gerbils jump high they have long tails both of them can escape out of a hamster/gerbil/ECT. ball so u have to tape it. AND NEVER LET YOUR HANDS SMELL LIKE food or the hamster or gerbil with bite u. dont feed them junk food, veggies,fruits,seeds are good for them. dont use wood bedding becuase that isnt good for them.i just dont noe why the pet store used them but my hammy is fine =D and make sure u check out the pet if u see anything out of normal then u dont buy it O_o
hamsters, like the syrian are solitary, so you only need one, and they are alot of fu, gerbils are more nervous types and i don't care for them as pets, you can go to petsmart and get everything you need. i like the crittertrail cages, and the super shavin's bedding, low on oilsand dust, and they have food and exercise balls to run in out of the cage. they are nocturnal, so be prepared to move them out of the room you sleep in, and they eat fresh vegs and fruits as well as their mix, the cage will come with a bowl and water bottle, so you don't need to buy those extra.
DO NOT GET A GERBIL!!! it is pretty rare for them to be nive but if they arent nice then they are devils :0( but hampsters are hardly never mean.!!
Do not get two gerbils! When I was younger we had two in the same cage, and one day we came home from school to 1 1/2 gerbils. NOT pretty! Our vet said they can become carniverous!
We've had one hamster at a time for a number of years now, and they've been quite happy. The main thing to remember, after the obvious food/water/cage stuff, is that if you want them to be friendly and social you have to take them out and hold them and play with them on a regular basis. That way they get used to your smell and to being held, and they won't bite or hide from you. We didn't know this with our first hamster, and once he bit us each once (and drew blood) we stopped picking him up. Since he wasn't socialized he was very hard to catch and control when we needed to clean the cage. ..but other than that they make very cute, quiet pets.
Ants in my hamster cage help?
there were no ants erlierer
Answers:
Check the cage once more time and see if the ants are focused on one food or anything in the hamster's cage.And then clean out all the stuff out of the cage,put fresh beddings,fresh water,and fresh food.And see if your hamsters ok.Also try to put the cage were its high like on a shelf or clean out were the ants habitat is.Don't use anything that would harm the hamster.
look for natural ant bait - i think it is boric acid powder - then sprinkle outside of cage - they are just after the food that hamsters always keep stored up
You may have to set it up on a stool or something that is over a little water or put legs of a table in jars of water if ants are real bad and they are the biting ones, clean cage regularly. Devise some kind of moat around the cage so the ants would have to go over water to get in.
boric acid on outside and cucumber peel inside cage will keep them out
Clean it out. *common sense*
move the cage somewhere else
Don't use any 'ant bait' as some of these produce odors which will affect the hamster if a left close enough. They are attracted to the odor of food (I don't see why they would come to droppings), so do clean it out more often and remove spoiled food daily.
Answers:
Check the cage once more time and see if the ants are focused on one food or anything in the hamster's cage.And then clean out all the stuff out of the cage,put fresh beddings,fresh water,and fresh food.And see if your hamsters ok.Also try to put the cage were its high like on a shelf or clean out were the ants habitat is.Don't use anything that would harm the hamster.
look for natural ant bait - i think it is boric acid powder - then sprinkle outside of cage - they are just after the food that hamsters always keep stored up
You may have to set it up on a stool or something that is over a little water or put legs of a table in jars of water if ants are real bad and they are the biting ones, clean cage regularly. Devise some kind of moat around the cage so the ants would have to go over water to get in.
boric acid on outside and cucumber peel inside cage will keep them out
Clean it out. *common sense*
move the cage somewhere else
Don't use any 'ant bait' as some of these produce odors which will affect the hamster if a left close enough. They are attracted to the odor of food (I don't see why they would come to droppings), so do clean it out more often and remove spoiled food daily.
Ants are coming into my hamsters cage, HELP!?
Is there a possible way for ants to keep away from my hamster? I don't want to spray the place with the ant thing. Any suggestions, I need to know what to do ASAP.
I don't want to keep cleaning the cage, since that'll be a complete waste of bedding. I need A LOT of possible suggestions.
Answers:
find a way to hang the cage or move it somewhere the ants aren't gonna find it quickly, usually a hall or bedroom-nowhere near the kitchen or bathroom cause they need water too. Get rid of whatever food the ants are after. they make stuff for hamsters with honey in it...not a good idea for the summer monthes, stick to bland foods and make sure the hamster is kept clean as well as the cage. If it continues regardless of where the cage is, this is gonna sound gross and I'm sorry but have your hamster checked out by a doctor to make sure it's not the hamster himself they are after or living in. My first hamster didn't have ants inside him but roaches and the doctor told me when they put him down it's rare but it can happen with lots of insects.
do not use boric acid around a hamster cage you could accidently poison your hamster.-happened to our cat when we tried to get rid of the roaches.
clean the cage thoroughly and regularly. Spread boric acid around and in front of any possible ant entry-ways
Be sure to remove uneaten fruit or veggies about half an hour after you put them in. Otherwise, they will attract ants. Cedar chips as opposed to pine are also supposed to keep insects away.
I think putting hamster food outside the cage will attract more ants. Now, this sounds very stupid BUT I've heard it actually works. Get a piece of regular chalk like from a black board. Draw a line around the cage. If you can't...put the cage on a piece of material or on sheets of construction paper and draw the chalk line on that. Ants SUPPOSEDLY won't cross the chalk line.
It would be interesting to know if that really works.
Clean your hamster cage regularly. Are you feeding it live foods? Is he eating them? Are there any leftover fruits that are uneaten? Remove them.
awe get that poor wee hamster out of there,maybe the ants are in the bedding that you bought and you havent realised it.
move it somewhere else
Okay...First off, switch to recycled paper bedding. When I had an Ant problem with my Gerbils way back, I did so, and they hated it, for some reason. Secondly.If you spread a thin line of -cinnamon- around the border of the hamster cage, the ants won't cross it. We put some in front of our house's doors every spring ^^' .
Good Luck!
PS- IF they're coming into your cage, they must be coming from inside your house, somewhere! Find their trail and ant-trap their little butts.
1st thoroughly clean the cage then do the chalk around the outside of the cage, it's a trick we've used camping.
Stay away from cedar shavings in the cage as they can cause respiratory problem for the little guys.
You do need to find the source where they are coming in a put baby oil %26 the ants won't come marching in anymore.
...and there are always ant stakes.
Having ants really stinks. I've had ants on and off in my apartment, but managed to get rid of them before they got to my rodent's cages.
I also had a very dirty roommate in college who attracted ants(and mice).
While with the dirty roommate, we got rid of ants by sprinkling cinnamon around things we didn't want ants in, like the refridgerator.
The ants in my apartment were taken care of by placing baited ant traps near where they were getting in. The ants in my apartment were strange, because 1)They all came in during thunderstorms or heavy rain, and 2)While my kitchen and pantry are full of food, they preferred by bathroom, which has... toilet paper, and soap.
Another thing I tried was feeding an ant to my betta fish. He gobbled it up(this was before I got the poison traps, I wouldn't think of giving my fish a poisoned ant)
Clean the cage then don't spray on the cage but around the cage. If this doesn't stop call animal control and ask them to get rid of the ants.
I don't want to keep cleaning the cage, since that'll be a complete waste of bedding. I need A LOT of possible suggestions.
Answers:
find a way to hang the cage or move it somewhere the ants aren't gonna find it quickly, usually a hall or bedroom-nowhere near the kitchen or bathroom cause they need water too. Get rid of whatever food the ants are after. they make stuff for hamsters with honey in it...not a good idea for the summer monthes, stick to bland foods and make sure the hamster is kept clean as well as the cage. If it continues regardless of where the cage is, this is gonna sound gross and I'm sorry but have your hamster checked out by a doctor to make sure it's not the hamster himself they are after or living in. My first hamster didn't have ants inside him but roaches and the doctor told me when they put him down it's rare but it can happen with lots of insects.
do not use boric acid around a hamster cage you could accidently poison your hamster.-happened to our cat when we tried to get rid of the roaches.
clean the cage thoroughly and regularly. Spread boric acid around and in front of any possible ant entry-ways
Be sure to remove uneaten fruit or veggies about half an hour after you put them in. Otherwise, they will attract ants. Cedar chips as opposed to pine are also supposed to keep insects away.
I think putting hamster food outside the cage will attract more ants. Now, this sounds very stupid BUT I've heard it actually works. Get a piece of regular chalk like from a black board. Draw a line around the cage. If you can't...put the cage on a piece of material or on sheets of construction paper and draw the chalk line on that. Ants SUPPOSEDLY won't cross the chalk line.
It would be interesting to know if that really works.
Clean your hamster cage regularly. Are you feeding it live foods? Is he eating them? Are there any leftover fruits that are uneaten? Remove them.
awe get that poor wee hamster out of there,maybe the ants are in the bedding that you bought and you havent realised it.
move it somewhere else
Okay...First off, switch to recycled paper bedding. When I had an Ant problem with my Gerbils way back, I did so, and they hated it, for some reason. Secondly.If you spread a thin line of -cinnamon- around the border of the hamster cage, the ants won't cross it. We put some in front of our house's doors every spring ^^' .
Good Luck!
PS- IF they're coming into your cage, they must be coming from inside your house, somewhere! Find their trail and ant-trap their little butts.
1st thoroughly clean the cage then do the chalk around the outside of the cage, it's a trick we've used camping.
Stay away from cedar shavings in the cage as they can cause respiratory problem for the little guys.
You do need to find the source where they are coming in a put baby oil %26 the ants won't come marching in anymore.
...and there are always ant stakes.
Having ants really stinks. I've had ants on and off in my apartment, but managed to get rid of them before they got to my rodent's cages.
I also had a very dirty roommate in college who attracted ants(and mice).
While with the dirty roommate, we got rid of ants by sprinkling cinnamon around things we didn't want ants in, like the refridgerator.
The ants in my apartment were taken care of by placing baited ant traps near where they were getting in. The ants in my apartment were strange, because 1)They all came in during thunderstorms or heavy rain, and 2)While my kitchen and pantry are full of food, they preferred by bathroom, which has... toilet paper, and soap.
Another thing I tried was feeding an ant to my betta fish. He gobbled it up(this was before I got the poison traps, I wouldn't think of giving my fish a poisoned ant)
Clean the cage then don't spray on the cage but around the cage. If this doesn't stop call animal control and ask them to get rid of the ants.
Antoher hamster question?
HOW DO I STOP MY FEMALE HAMSTER FROM BITING ME
Answers:
Hamsters can be territorial of their cages, females sometimes more then males. She's very scared of you as well. She needs reassuring from you with a gentle voice and time. Attempting to hold her is one of the best ways she will become used to you. This can be done by removing her with your hand or by using a toilet paper roll or food dish to remove her. Once she's out of her cage she may not be as territorial, but may still be scared. Hold her over a soft surface so if she jumps or bites and you let go, she lands on the soft surface. Over a bed, a blanket, or folded towel will do for this. Falling from just a few feet onto a hard surface can injure her severely. You will need to work with her daily and several times a day. Another thing to do is to offer her treats before you try to pick her up. One more secret is to let her fill her cheeck pouches with food, then once she's stuffed them pick her up. She shouldn't be able to bite with her cheeks stuffed. We tamed some of ours this way and it did work. We have used all the above ways to tame many Syrian and dwarf hamsters. We are in the process of taming a rescue (female Syrian) who's simply scared right now with her new surroundings, smells, and sounds. Try the different ways and see if she responds to any. This can take a few days or even a few weeks to tame her. We had one that took about 2 months to tame, but she had to overcome her fear of being dropped. She was dropped by a young chid who was unsupervised in a pet store causing head trauma to her. We took her home and my oldest son worked with her, now she's a wonderful pet, she spooks easily though.
well she may be scared. just let her know u wont hurt her and just give her time and she should get comfertable with
u
Don't stick your finger in the cage.
ITS CALLED TAMING YOUR HAMSTER
YOUR HAMSTER DONT YET TRUST YOU.
DO SOME RESEARCH BEFORE GETTING ANY OETS FROM NOW ON
Answers:
Hamsters can be territorial of their cages, females sometimes more then males. She's very scared of you as well. She needs reassuring from you with a gentle voice and time. Attempting to hold her is one of the best ways she will become used to you. This can be done by removing her with your hand or by using a toilet paper roll or food dish to remove her. Once she's out of her cage she may not be as territorial, but may still be scared. Hold her over a soft surface so if she jumps or bites and you let go, she lands on the soft surface. Over a bed, a blanket, or folded towel will do for this. Falling from just a few feet onto a hard surface can injure her severely. You will need to work with her daily and several times a day. Another thing to do is to offer her treats before you try to pick her up. One more secret is to let her fill her cheeck pouches with food, then once she's stuffed them pick her up. She shouldn't be able to bite with her cheeks stuffed. We tamed some of ours this way and it did work. We have used all the above ways to tame many Syrian and dwarf hamsters. We are in the process of taming a rescue (female Syrian) who's simply scared right now with her new surroundings, smells, and sounds. Try the different ways and see if she responds to any. This can take a few days or even a few weeks to tame her. We had one that took about 2 months to tame, but she had to overcome her fear of being dropped. She was dropped by a young chid who was unsupervised in a pet store causing head trauma to her. We took her home and my oldest son worked with her, now she's a wonderful pet, she spooks easily though.
well she may be scared. just let her know u wont hurt her and just give her time and she should get comfertable with
u
Don't stick your finger in the cage.
ITS CALLED TAMING YOUR HAMSTER
YOUR HAMSTER DONT YET TRUST YOU.
DO SOME RESEARCH BEFORE GETTING ANY OETS FROM NOW ON
Anti-social guinea pig?
I have had this pig for about a year now, and she is showing no affection towards me at all, and she never has. She bites occasionally(she's better about that now), and hates being taken out of her cage. She hasn't been altered, because i heard that it's hard on them. Sadly, she has no other piggy friends, and her cage is in my room because my family is disgusted by her.
I'm getting pretty frustrated, and I want to get her a companion, but there are a few problems. 1, I don't think she'd be very happy; she gets mad when i just put my hand in her cage, 2, I'm not sure whether I would want another one.I feel terrible, but I'm not really enjoying owning a piggy. To be honest, I wish I could get a pet rat, but don't want to abandon my pig. What should I do?
Answers:
Getting another (same sex) guinea pig could definitely help. Also, a larger cage would for sure make an improvement. http://www.cavycages.com/ has great examples of guinea pig cages you can make yourself (no talent necessary.. if I can do it, anyone can.. lol).
Bring treats with you whenever to come to the cage. Don't try to pet her until she gets used to you putting your hand in the cage and giving her treats. You can try to see if she'll eat it out of your hand, but if not, just put the treats in the cage, and just sit nearby and speak softly to her. When she's used to you, you can hand-feed her treats. If she's comfortable, try scratching the top of her head gently. Most guinea pigs like that. If she tries biting you, just keep going as before with the treats. She'll see that you don't mean any harm.
Also, make sure that there aren't any loud and/or sudden sounds or movements around your guinea pig; Don't ever grab her suddenly; guinea pigs are prey animals by nature and are skittish my instinct. Always be quiet and use slow movements around the piggie.
Good luck!
Your not enjoying owning a piggy becuase she isn't being affectionate towards you. Another pig may fix your problem though. Are you gone for most of everyday? She's porbably jsu t doesn't get enough attention, or play time. Try getting another pig, and introduce them on nuetral grounds.
What a tricky situation. I think it's admirable that you don't want to abandon her. There are pigs out there who prefer to be lone pigs rather than herd pigs. But maybe the aggression she is showing you is stemming from being lonely? She's kept in your room, so I imagine that she's not quite at the center of attention (as opposed to, say, in the family room)...I'd hate to say "add a pig!" and then have it not work out.
Here's what I might do - go to Petfinder and see if there are any local guinea pigs around you that need homes. Email them and tell them what's going on - that you have an antisocial pig and you think maybe she needs a buddy, but you're not sure. See if you can arrange to have your pig "introduced" to the other pig - go to the shelter and take her with you. See what happens. I imagine they'll go through the whole "mounting, butt sniffing, teeth chattering" thing, which is normal...but see if anything progresses.
Worst case (and I can't believe I'm about to say this), maybe she'd be happier somewhere else. Maybe it would be in both your best interests to look into having someone else foster her while they look for another home for her.
Hang in there! Good luck!
Acanoffleas has some good advice under the circumstances. However, I want to throw this possibility into the equation too.
Some piggies can be really cranky because they have mites. The pain of mites keeps them from wanting to be touched or petted. Does she have any areas of hair loss? Have you checked her over thoroughly for any sores or red patches? Does she scratch a lot? If you're not sure whether or not your piggie might have mites (they can't be seen with the naked eye), you can take her to the vet %26 request treatment. You can do this yourself by purchasing Ivermectin, but unless you are SURE of what you're doing %26 how much to give her, I'd see a vet. See this link for info about mites: http://www.guinealynx.info/mites.html... Warning: The photos are *really* bad cases of mites %26 not all piggies look THAT bad.
Bless you for not just taking her to the pound.
She's a petstore pig? Then mites are part of the problem. You can't see mites, you may not see shedding or scratching. Pet store pigs are infested 99.99% of the time.
Her cages souds like it is too small, that might ne why she is cranky too. I would be if I lived in a glorified litter box. Build her a new, big cage.
I would wait on getting another pig. You need to see to the one you have first and make sure everytihg is happy in your home first.
Read guinealynx.info for more great info that will help you take great care of your pig. Good luck!
I'm getting pretty frustrated, and I want to get her a companion, but there are a few problems. 1, I don't think she'd be very happy; she gets mad when i just put my hand in her cage, 2, I'm not sure whether I would want another one.I feel terrible, but I'm not really enjoying owning a piggy. To be honest, I wish I could get a pet rat, but don't want to abandon my pig. What should I do?
Answers:
Getting another (same sex) guinea pig could definitely help. Also, a larger cage would for sure make an improvement. http://www.cavycages.com/ has great examples of guinea pig cages you can make yourself (no talent necessary.. if I can do it, anyone can.. lol).
Bring treats with you whenever to come to the cage. Don't try to pet her until she gets used to you putting your hand in the cage and giving her treats. You can try to see if she'll eat it out of your hand, but if not, just put the treats in the cage, and just sit nearby and speak softly to her. When she's used to you, you can hand-feed her treats. If she's comfortable, try scratching the top of her head gently. Most guinea pigs like that. If she tries biting you, just keep going as before with the treats. She'll see that you don't mean any harm.
Also, make sure that there aren't any loud and/or sudden sounds or movements around your guinea pig; Don't ever grab her suddenly; guinea pigs are prey animals by nature and are skittish my instinct. Always be quiet and use slow movements around the piggie.
Good luck!
Your not enjoying owning a piggy becuase she isn't being affectionate towards you. Another pig may fix your problem though. Are you gone for most of everyday? She's porbably jsu t doesn't get enough attention, or play time. Try getting another pig, and introduce them on nuetral grounds.
What a tricky situation. I think it's admirable that you don't want to abandon her. There are pigs out there who prefer to be lone pigs rather than herd pigs. But maybe the aggression she is showing you is stemming from being lonely? She's kept in your room, so I imagine that she's not quite at the center of attention (as opposed to, say, in the family room)...I'd hate to say "add a pig!" and then have it not work out.
Here's what I might do - go to Petfinder and see if there are any local guinea pigs around you that need homes. Email them and tell them what's going on - that you have an antisocial pig and you think maybe she needs a buddy, but you're not sure. See if you can arrange to have your pig "introduced" to the other pig - go to the shelter and take her with you. See what happens. I imagine they'll go through the whole "mounting, butt sniffing, teeth chattering" thing, which is normal...but see if anything progresses.
Worst case (and I can't believe I'm about to say this), maybe she'd be happier somewhere else. Maybe it would be in both your best interests to look into having someone else foster her while they look for another home for her.
Hang in there! Good luck!
Acanoffleas has some good advice under the circumstances. However, I want to throw this possibility into the equation too.
Some piggies can be really cranky because they have mites. The pain of mites keeps them from wanting to be touched or petted. Does she have any areas of hair loss? Have you checked her over thoroughly for any sores or red patches? Does she scratch a lot? If you're not sure whether or not your piggie might have mites (they can't be seen with the naked eye), you can take her to the vet %26 request treatment. You can do this yourself by purchasing Ivermectin, but unless you are SURE of what you're doing %26 how much to give her, I'd see a vet. See this link for info about mites: http://www.guinealynx.info/mites.html... Warning: The photos are *really* bad cases of mites %26 not all piggies look THAT bad.
Bless you for not just taking her to the pound.
She's a petstore pig? Then mites are part of the problem. You can't see mites, you may not see shedding or scratching. Pet store pigs are infested 99.99% of the time.
Her cages souds like it is too small, that might ne why she is cranky too. I would be if I lived in a glorified litter box. Build her a new, big cage.
I would wait on getting another pig. You need to see to the one you have first and make sure everytihg is happy in your home first.
Read guinealynx.info for more great info that will help you take great care of your pig. Good luck!
Answer to my previous question is im being charged 25 dollars?
Answers:
$25 for a rabbit with all accessories is a good price. However have you looked into the cage of having a pet rabbit. The $25 is just the beginning charge, it is not cheap to keep a rabbit(if you are doing it properly). They are high maintenance and need a lot of time out of their cage per day(minimum 6 hrs). They require yearly vet visits(just like dogs), you need to spay(if not done already). The diet is very specific(after 1 year of age), they are destructive(I had a friend whose rabbit ripped the wallpaper off, and my rabbit has ripped bare patches in my carpet.
Make sure you look into everything about rabbit care. Uninformed owners are why so many rabbits end up in shelter(probably the reason this rabbit is being given to you).
Another rat question?? Where to buy them??
Alright, I am set on the fact that I will be buying two male rats very soon. My best friend has two rats currently, and bought one from Petco and one from a place that sells baby rats as snake food. Do you guys/ladies think it really matters where I get my rats from? I was considering the pet store that sells them as food...not only because I'd be saving two of their lives, but also because I want two baby rats so I can hand raise them (Petco and PetSmart tend to only have the adult rats). My only concern is the health of the rats from the food store. I'm not sure what to do. What do you guys think? I need some opinions. Also, does anybody here prefer a specific breed of rat? If so, please explain why.
Thank you =)
Answers:
IFyou BUY from a pet store you ar enot 'saving' them you are merely making an opening for 2 more too take their place
However a good petstore [whilst still getting their rodent from mills]will know their source and their source WILL be inspected and controlled where a backyard breeder will not
for two well socialised boys then a breeder is best, look for one that is approved somewhere like
http://www.goosemoose.com/
http://www.nfrs.org/
or whatever is applicable in your country
a breeder will be able to give you papers detailing the history of your boys and any problems within the lines and will be aware of where all the siblings have gone and how they have got on
breeder boys will be bigger and shinier than petshop boys of the same age, due to correct breeding andfeeding and will have been handled from birth
feeder rats are actually healhy and well fed as snake and lizard owners will not endanger their animals by feeding them rubbish. but they are often supplied by the same mills that supply the pet ones theonly difference being the pets will be the pretty ones and the feeders will be the blacks/browns/pew
rescue rats are often the result of buying from petshops and finding that they dont settle or are nippy or that people havent had the patience to keep with them and have got bored. they are also often the result of petshop missexing and are therefore as unhealthy as their parents
personally i would never advise a new rat owner to get a rat from a rescue, most rescues have either been traumatised in some ways/have health problems/bred by mistake/ not socialised/biters/old.
the truth is people just dont put good healthy young rats into rescues, those are the 'keepers'
there are no breeds of rats all pet rats are one breed, rattus norvegicus, there are many different varieties though and all are created equal and its your personal choice
here i have
1 black hooded
1 agouti hooded
1 agouti hooded dumbo
1 roan/husky dumbo
1sealpoint siamese dumbo
1 black berkshire dumbo
4 roan/husky top ears
and
1 naked hunny
all boys, none related and ranging from 14 months-6months
in the past weve had fawns,champagnes, pews selfs, boys and girls
all my rats have picked us rather than we pick them, these are rats who are first up to us and climbing all over us saying 'im yours take me home'
good luck with your choices
The PetSmart in Lexington, KY sold me my pet rat, and it was still a pup! I would be afraid to buy a rat that was to be used as snake food only because of health issues %26 they probably havent been handled %26 properly socialized. Talk to the people at Petco or PetSmart %26 see if they get rat pups in to sell. Good luck!!
Where you get them from is incredibly important.
Rats from pet stores are mass bred so, as you say, can have bad health. They also won't have been handled much so won't be very friendly. If you buy from a pet shop you support this trade so you are basically funding animal cruelty. If the rats sell they will keep getting more in. So although you save the lives of the rats you buy, you condemn others to cruelty.
If you go to a rescue on the other hand you are supporting a good cause. Rescues often get pregnant does in so will have litters of babies looking for homes. A good rescue will handle babies from very young so they will be nice and friendly.
Breed wise, rats only really vary in colour and this doesn't affect their personality the way it does with dogs for example.
Feeder Supply usually has babies or young rats for sale. If you are looking for a baby that could become snake food it will end up being a mouse because they usually feed snakes baby or small mice not rats. If you are looking to save a rat, try looking on PetFinder. They have rats for adoption pretty cheap and you could save one.
They make great pets. I had a hooded rat and she was great and loved to climb on me and give kisses. I picked her out by placing my hand in the cage and seeing which one would come to me and she ran up to my shoulder so she went home with me. Good luck.
If you want a well socialized, healthy rat, please adopt one from a rescue or shelter. You'll be saving a life, and you'll be able to get a bit of history on him too.
If you go to www.petfinder.org you can search for rats by gender and location!
I wouldn't get your rats from a place selling them as feeders. They are not socialized with humans and are probably very hand shy. You would need to work with them a lot to get them over their fears of humans. Sometimes petstores like PetSmart get young rats in. I would check a few stores before committing to your pair. I would also choose them from the same place, that way you know they get along and will be more comforted since they already know each other.
i do not think it matters where you get it but i got a hamster from a store called feathers and fur and 10 days later after we got her we discovered she had mites that took $160 to pay for the treatment so i think you should get one from petsmart or petco because they take VERY good care of there animals
well rats make babies 8 times a week. so you don't have to buy two to save their lives because there are a lot more out there, and also this is keeping the rat population down. Yes I do advise you to buy a two baby rat, so you can handle it so it wont be mean or bite and so it can trust you. And so If you get two they won't get lonely. You should get two from the same litter, so they'll know each other . Make sure the pet store of your choice has the male separated from the mother and babies. When you look at the babies they should have dark eyes. When I go to pet stores to look at the hamsters I see the male rats eating the young, I'd advised them to keep the male separated from the female and her Young if I were you. Rats are a a bit mean in my opinion.
hope what I said helped!
I would not buy a rat from a pet store, they are not socialized, too young, have many health problems and if you buy them for a pet store you are just encouraging bad practice for the pet stores, if you buy one, then they get in more because people are buying them. Do not believe that you are "rescuing" the rat because there are many more in the back room :( and the babies are usually taken away for their mom too soon. I would recommend doing some research before you buy even if you buy from a breeder because some are not good breeders. I would only get one from a shelter if I was ready to deal with any issues that they have because shelter rats are also not well socialized and may be aggressive (they are there) they also will not be babies but adults and their ages may not be known so you might get a older rat. Check in your area for information here is a useful rat forum that also includes the U.S. and they can help point you in the right direction http://www.lilratscal.com/forum/index.ph... and remember, rats live about 2 years, need proper food, care, housing and love they are not a pet to get on a whim. I love Dumbo rats and Albino but they all have different personalities and are loving pets.
If you want the healthiest, most long-lived, rats then start your search with looking for a reputable breeder
http://www.ratster.com/
You can still get your rats from a pet store, just keep in mind that these rats are puppy-mill bred and their health is an issue. I've had breeder, pet, and feeder, rats over the years and they have all made awesome pets. Some just had more health issues to deal with.
A question that I answered earlier may answer some of your pet store rat questions:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;...
Our pet rats are Rattus norvegicus, a species of rat.
http://www.ratbehavior.org/ratspecies.ht...
Since there is no such thing as breeds of rats, only Types and Varieties to date, there is no real difference in rats except for their coloring and markings. Pick your rats with friendliness as your first priorty. I've had almost every Type and Variety of a rat, would love to get my hands on the Harley Type, and there's been no substancial difference between them.
http://spazrats.tripod.com/mischief.html...
Since you are new to rat keeping may I suggest that you join one of the many Yahoo rat groups where you can talk to others about their rat-keeping experiences.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/holistarat...
spazrats
"my life has gone to the rats"
saving one is a good idea, but first check your local animal shelter. i got a baby hamster from one near me, and it was the sweetest thing. also, they tend to also let you take the cage its in and all its stuff for one low price
After checking with our local shelter and finding out that they didn't have any rats we purchased ours from Petco and haven't had any problems. However we did get them at about 6 weeks old and on the same day the store received them.
We will have been together 1 year in August.
Thank you =)
Answers:
IFyou BUY from a pet store you ar enot 'saving' them you are merely making an opening for 2 more too take their place
However a good petstore [whilst still getting their rodent from mills]will know their source and their source WILL be inspected and controlled where a backyard breeder will not
for two well socialised boys then a breeder is best, look for one that is approved somewhere like
http://www.goosemoose.com/
http://www.nfrs.org/
or whatever is applicable in your country
a breeder will be able to give you papers detailing the history of your boys and any problems within the lines and will be aware of where all the siblings have gone and how they have got on
breeder boys will be bigger and shinier than petshop boys of the same age, due to correct breeding andfeeding and will have been handled from birth
feeder rats are actually healhy and well fed as snake and lizard owners will not endanger their animals by feeding them rubbish. but they are often supplied by the same mills that supply the pet ones theonly difference being the pets will be the pretty ones and the feeders will be the blacks/browns/pew
rescue rats are often the result of buying from petshops and finding that they dont settle or are nippy or that people havent had the patience to keep with them and have got bored. they are also often the result of petshop missexing and are therefore as unhealthy as their parents
personally i would never advise a new rat owner to get a rat from a rescue, most rescues have either been traumatised in some ways/have health problems/bred by mistake/ not socialised/biters/old.
the truth is people just dont put good healthy young rats into rescues, those are the 'keepers'
there are no breeds of rats all pet rats are one breed, rattus norvegicus, there are many different varieties though and all are created equal and its your personal choice
here i have
1 black hooded
1 agouti hooded
1 agouti hooded dumbo
1 roan/husky dumbo
1sealpoint siamese dumbo
1 black berkshire dumbo
4 roan/husky top ears
and
1 naked hunny
all boys, none related and ranging from 14 months-6months
in the past weve had fawns,champagnes, pews selfs, boys and girls
all my rats have picked us rather than we pick them, these are rats who are first up to us and climbing all over us saying 'im yours take me home'
good luck with your choices
The PetSmart in Lexington, KY sold me my pet rat, and it was still a pup! I would be afraid to buy a rat that was to be used as snake food only because of health issues %26 they probably havent been handled %26 properly socialized. Talk to the people at Petco or PetSmart %26 see if they get rat pups in to sell. Good luck!!
Where you get them from is incredibly important.
Rats from pet stores are mass bred so, as you say, can have bad health. They also won't have been handled much so won't be very friendly. If you buy from a pet shop you support this trade so you are basically funding animal cruelty. If the rats sell they will keep getting more in. So although you save the lives of the rats you buy, you condemn others to cruelty.
If you go to a rescue on the other hand you are supporting a good cause. Rescues often get pregnant does in so will have litters of babies looking for homes. A good rescue will handle babies from very young so they will be nice and friendly.
Breed wise, rats only really vary in colour and this doesn't affect their personality the way it does with dogs for example.
Feeder Supply usually has babies or young rats for sale. If you are looking for a baby that could become snake food it will end up being a mouse because they usually feed snakes baby or small mice not rats. If you are looking to save a rat, try looking on PetFinder. They have rats for adoption pretty cheap and you could save one.
They make great pets. I had a hooded rat and she was great and loved to climb on me and give kisses. I picked her out by placing my hand in the cage and seeing which one would come to me and she ran up to my shoulder so she went home with me. Good luck.
If you want a well socialized, healthy rat, please adopt one from a rescue or shelter. You'll be saving a life, and you'll be able to get a bit of history on him too.
If you go to www.petfinder.org you can search for rats by gender and location!
I wouldn't get your rats from a place selling them as feeders. They are not socialized with humans and are probably very hand shy. You would need to work with them a lot to get them over their fears of humans. Sometimes petstores like PetSmart get young rats in. I would check a few stores before committing to your pair. I would also choose them from the same place, that way you know they get along and will be more comforted since they already know each other.
i do not think it matters where you get it but i got a hamster from a store called feathers and fur and 10 days later after we got her we discovered she had mites that took $160 to pay for the treatment so i think you should get one from petsmart or petco because they take VERY good care of there animals
well rats make babies 8 times a week. so you don't have to buy two to save their lives because there are a lot more out there, and also this is keeping the rat population down. Yes I do advise you to buy a two baby rat, so you can handle it so it wont be mean or bite and so it can trust you. And so If you get two they won't get lonely. You should get two from the same litter, so they'll know each other . Make sure the pet store of your choice has the male separated from the mother and babies. When you look at the babies they should have dark eyes. When I go to pet stores to look at the hamsters I see the male rats eating the young, I'd advised them to keep the male separated from the female and her Young if I were you. Rats are a a bit mean in my opinion.
hope what I said helped!
I would not buy a rat from a pet store, they are not socialized, too young, have many health problems and if you buy them for a pet store you are just encouraging bad practice for the pet stores, if you buy one, then they get in more because people are buying them. Do not believe that you are "rescuing" the rat because there are many more in the back room :( and the babies are usually taken away for their mom too soon. I would recommend doing some research before you buy even if you buy from a breeder because some are not good breeders. I would only get one from a shelter if I was ready to deal with any issues that they have because shelter rats are also not well socialized and may be aggressive (they are there) they also will not be babies but adults and their ages may not be known so you might get a older rat. Check in your area for information here is a useful rat forum that also includes the U.S. and they can help point you in the right direction http://www.lilratscal.com/forum/index.ph... and remember, rats live about 2 years, need proper food, care, housing and love they are not a pet to get on a whim. I love Dumbo rats and Albino but they all have different personalities and are loving pets.
If you want the healthiest, most long-lived, rats then start your search with looking for a reputable breeder
http://www.ratster.com/
You can still get your rats from a pet store, just keep in mind that these rats are puppy-mill bred and their health is an issue. I've had breeder, pet, and feeder, rats over the years and they have all made awesome pets. Some just had more health issues to deal with.
A question that I answered earlier may answer some of your pet store rat questions:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;...
Our pet rats are Rattus norvegicus, a species of rat.
http://www.ratbehavior.org/ratspecies.ht...
Since there is no such thing as breeds of rats, only Types and Varieties to date, there is no real difference in rats except for their coloring and markings. Pick your rats with friendliness as your first priorty. I've had almost every Type and Variety of a rat, would love to get my hands on the Harley Type, and there's been no substancial difference between them.
http://spazrats.tripod.com/mischief.html...
Since you are new to rat keeping may I suggest that you join one of the many Yahoo rat groups where you can talk to others about their rat-keeping experiences.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/holistarat...
spazrats
"my life has gone to the rats"
saving one is a good idea, but first check your local animal shelter. i got a baby hamster from one near me, and it was the sweetest thing. also, they tend to also let you take the cage its in and all its stuff for one low price
After checking with our local shelter and finding out that they didn't have any rats we purchased ours from Petco and haven't had any problems. However we did get them at about 6 weeks old and on the same day the store received them.
We will have been together 1 year in August.
Another rat question?
hi i have a rat question /////lol///// wat do rat tails feel like does it feel slimy or a shaved dog or cat and i beed information on rats are they cheaper than hamsters at petco thanks
Answers:
A rats tail is made up of tiny skin scales arranged in the same way as a snake's scales. Each rat tail scale holds two to three tiny hairs. Petted the way the scales grow, the tail feels smooth, like skin, and neither slippery nor slimy. The tail is dry and silky to the touch. Petted in the opposite direction, the tail feels like that shaved dog you speak of.
The rat's tail is a marvelous appendage
http://www.ratbehavior.org/rattails.htm...
spazrats
"my life has gone to the rats"
Like skin...
[x]melanieinuyasha
rats tails feel almost silky. rats are like $5.
ps. get a baby rat.
Rats tails feel much like a shaved dog. I have own rats for years. They make wonderful pets. I don't know which is cheaper but between a rat %26 hamster, it is only a few bucks.
Food for either is about the same as well. Hamster are much quicker to bite, they spend most of their time sleeping and burrowing. Rats, enjoy human company, it has been tested by science that they are far smarter than other rodents. I have owned both and if you can get past the tail and the reputation, rats are a far better choice.
rats can cost from $5-$25, I think hamsters can be more. there tails feel like skin, sort of soft.
loly!
It feels like a guy who hasn't shaved *lol*
Rats from the pet store are cheaper then hamsters.. the going rate for rats is usually $2-5 depending on age and size.
hamsters is usually $8-15
If you want an animal that is more sociable and you want to handle a lot then get a rat.
They are really like small dogs. you can train them to do tricks, or they are just hilarious to watch. You will want to get 2 rats though as they do best in pairs since they are a very social animal.
like dry skin or like string
tails aren't slimey
Answers:
A rats tail is made up of tiny skin scales arranged in the same way as a snake's scales. Each rat tail scale holds two to three tiny hairs. Petted the way the scales grow, the tail feels smooth, like skin, and neither slippery nor slimy. The tail is dry and silky to the touch. Petted in the opposite direction, the tail feels like that shaved dog you speak of.
The rat's tail is a marvelous appendage
http://www.ratbehavior.org/rattails.htm...
spazrats
"my life has gone to the rats"
Like skin...
[x]melanieinuyasha
rats tails feel almost silky. rats are like $5.
ps. get a baby rat.
Rats tails feel much like a shaved dog. I have own rats for years. They make wonderful pets. I don't know which is cheaper but between a rat %26 hamster, it is only a few bucks.
Food for either is about the same as well. Hamster are much quicker to bite, they spend most of their time sleeping and burrowing. Rats, enjoy human company, it has been tested by science that they are far smarter than other rodents. I have owned both and if you can get past the tail and the reputation, rats are a far better choice.
rats can cost from $5-$25, I think hamsters can be more. there tails feel like skin, sort of soft.
loly!
It feels like a guy who hasn't shaved *lol*
Rats from the pet store are cheaper then hamsters.. the going rate for rats is usually $2-5 depending on age and size.
hamsters is usually $8-15
If you want an animal that is more sociable and you want to handle a lot then get a rat.
They are really like small dogs. you can train them to do tricks, or they are just hilarious to watch. You will want to get 2 rats though as they do best in pairs since they are a very social animal.
like dry skin or like string
tails aren't slimey
Another rat question!?
Rat owners, if you had to go on vacation, what would you do with your rats?
1) Leave them at home with a sitter
2) Take them with you with a spare cage, food, litter and a travel cage (specially designed for rats).
Please tell me what to do. I'm not going on vacation, but I would like to know what would happen if you had to go, or if you have gone, what did you do?
Thank you in advance!
Answers:
I have around 100 rats so it's never been easy for me to find someone who likes rats, let alone someone who knows enough about rats to come into my home and look after that many.
But I found someone and she has been a gem. I rarely if ever go on vacation, but if I do I prefer my mischief to stay in their own home where they are surrounded by everything that is familiar to them.
I'm assuming you have only a couple of rats so with that assumption...If you are away for a weekend, say 2 - 3 days, you can keep your rats happy in their cage by providing them with *2* water bottles that are functioning properly and plenty of *dry* food. Do not give them any moist food, or fruit and vegies, while you are away because if they stash these, they will go rotten and make the rats sick should they nibble on it.
If your vacation is longer then 3 days then you really need to get someone to come into your house to look after your rats once, preferably twice, a day.
Some pet stores will board small animals, and that way there will be somebody watching out for your rats most of the day, every day.
Or do you have a friend who loves your rats, can be a responsible pet-sitter, and her house is rat-safe? You can take a confident rat over to her place where it might like a change of scenery.
Maybe you have chosen to take your rats with you?
Travelling with your rats
http://www.rmca.org/articles/training.ht...
http://www.goosemoose.com/component/opti...
http://www.rmca.org/articles/flyingrat.h...
Hints if you choose this:
You need to be travelling in an air-conditioned car
A cage small enough that it is easy to carry around
No water bottle while you are travelling in the car. The motion of the car can cause waterbottles to drip and soak the bedding. Use apples and watermelon instead for the rats' water intake, and put the waterbottle on the cage during the rest stops.
Your rat can stay on it's usual diet because you will be there to remove uneaten wet foods.
It's not a hassle to take your rats with you if you have done some pre-travel preparation, especially if you have only a couple of rats. Those who feel it's a hassle have not done their homework, or they haven't talked to other rat-keepers who have done it successfully. These people can talk to you on the rat-only Yahoo forums, about how they have done it and both they and their rats have enjoyed the experience.
spazrats
"my life has gone to the rats"
leave them at home with a sitter. if you are gong on vacation you probably wont be spending too much time with it. also your rat will be ok for a day or so, you would only need someone to come over and make sure it has food and water.
take them to a trusted individuals house, and let them watch them there.
Since they are so cheap to buy, a third option is to throw the current one in the garbage, and wait until you come back from vacation to buy another one.
Trying to take them with you may not only be a hassle, but it could end in disaster. What if they manage to escape and get lost? They won't enjoy being couped up in a travel cage for several days.
You should either leave them at home and have someone responsible look in on them for an hour each day, or ask a close friend to take them in for a few days. Your little ratties would be more comfortable in their usual cage without a huge disruption of their routine and strange new surroundings.
i like the idea about the garbage...
I would leave them at home with a trusted sitter. The ride might stress them out anyway. Put a couple new toys in the cage and leave instructions for your sitter. They will be fine.
i would choose a sitter. the carrting case might put stress on them and the sitter would take care of them
Well, when I went away I left my rats with a sitter. If you do, make sure the sitter will play with the rats every day and clean their cage. Maybe a trusted friend or relative. The trip could make the rats stresses out and change of environment like that could start illnesses. Unless it is for a long time and you think your rats are pretty equipped you should not take them with you.
Rats are very resourceful and will do fine at home for a short amount of time (couple weeks). Traveling with my rats has only proved to be a hassle. I recommend buying a large water bottle, and putting lots of food and snacks in their cage. This would allow them to have sufficient food and water for at least 3 days. If needed, a neighbor could easily refill their water and food every 3 days. Just make sure you let them out to stretch their legs as soon as you get home!
1) Leave them at home with a sitter
2) Take them with you with a spare cage, food, litter and a travel cage (specially designed for rats).
Please tell me what to do. I'm not going on vacation, but I would like to know what would happen if you had to go, or if you have gone, what did you do?
Thank you in advance!
Answers:
I have around 100 rats so it's never been easy for me to find someone who likes rats, let alone someone who knows enough about rats to come into my home and look after that many.
But I found someone and she has been a gem. I rarely if ever go on vacation, but if I do I prefer my mischief to stay in their own home where they are surrounded by everything that is familiar to them.
I'm assuming you have only a couple of rats so with that assumption...If you are away for a weekend, say 2 - 3 days, you can keep your rats happy in their cage by providing them with *2* water bottles that are functioning properly and plenty of *dry* food. Do not give them any moist food, or fruit and vegies, while you are away because if they stash these, they will go rotten and make the rats sick should they nibble on it.
If your vacation is longer then 3 days then you really need to get someone to come into your house to look after your rats once, preferably twice, a day.
Some pet stores will board small animals, and that way there will be somebody watching out for your rats most of the day, every day.
Or do you have a friend who loves your rats, can be a responsible pet-sitter, and her house is rat-safe? You can take a confident rat over to her place where it might like a change of scenery.
Maybe you have chosen to take your rats with you?
Travelling with your rats
http://www.rmca.org/articles/training.ht...
http://www.goosemoose.com/component/opti...
http://www.rmca.org/articles/flyingrat.h...
Hints if you choose this:
You need to be travelling in an air-conditioned car
A cage small enough that it is easy to carry around
No water bottle while you are travelling in the car. The motion of the car can cause waterbottles to drip and soak the bedding. Use apples and watermelon instead for the rats' water intake, and put the waterbottle on the cage during the rest stops.
Your rat can stay on it's usual diet because you will be there to remove uneaten wet foods.
It's not a hassle to take your rats with you if you have done some pre-travel preparation, especially if you have only a couple of rats. Those who feel it's a hassle have not done their homework, or they haven't talked to other rat-keepers who have done it successfully. These people can talk to you on the rat-only Yahoo forums, about how they have done it and both they and their rats have enjoyed the experience.
spazrats
"my life has gone to the rats"
leave them at home with a sitter. if you are gong on vacation you probably wont be spending too much time with it. also your rat will be ok for a day or so, you would only need someone to come over and make sure it has food and water.
take them to a trusted individuals house, and let them watch them there.
Since they are so cheap to buy, a third option is to throw the current one in the garbage, and wait until you come back from vacation to buy another one.
Trying to take them with you may not only be a hassle, but it could end in disaster. What if they manage to escape and get lost? They won't enjoy being couped up in a travel cage for several days.
You should either leave them at home and have someone responsible look in on them for an hour each day, or ask a close friend to take them in for a few days. Your little ratties would be more comfortable in their usual cage without a huge disruption of their routine and strange new surroundings.
i like the idea about the garbage...
I would leave them at home with a trusted sitter. The ride might stress them out anyway. Put a couple new toys in the cage and leave instructions for your sitter. They will be fine.
i would choose a sitter. the carrting case might put stress on them and the sitter would take care of them
Well, when I went away I left my rats with a sitter. If you do, make sure the sitter will play with the rats every day and clean their cage. Maybe a trusted friend or relative. The trip could make the rats stresses out and change of environment like that could start illnesses. Unless it is for a long time and you think your rats are pretty equipped you should not take them with you.
Rats are very resourceful and will do fine at home for a short amount of time (couple weeks). Traveling with my rats has only proved to be a hassle. I recommend buying a large water bottle, and putting lots of food and snacks in their cage. This would allow them to have sufficient food and water for at least 3 days. If needed, a neighbor could easily refill their water and food every 3 days. Just make sure you let them out to stretch their legs as soon as you get home!
ANOTHER rat question! Several tonight, huh?
This is my third one tonight. Today I went to different pet store, twice!! This store cared for and loved the rats. Any way, I slowly put my hand in with the rats and two of them (one full grown tan and white, one black and white, not as old) and they sat up on thier hind legs and smelled all the way up to the top of were my arm came into the cage. I know that these are good signs of handling and personality, but they would put there mouths around me. Kind of like a bite. They would start to bite down and i would flinch away, and they would flinch, but i would stick my hand in again, and they would do it again! Is that okay in finding a good rat, and will a rat stop that once I take it home?
Answers:
They are curious in you and that is the first sign of acceptance. Whether or not you had food on your hands they are still accepting you. I frightened rat, or one that is afraid of a person's hand because it was harrassed, or not handled enough, would not even approach you for food if that's what it thought you had. I would be very concerned if they were racing around the cage in a panic to get away from you.
Rats are oral creatures and what they are doing is exploring your hand, and grooming you. This is acceptance behavior. The problem is, they haven't been handled a lot by the store employees and therefore they have not learned to nibble softly.
You can teach your rats to groom you more gently by letting out a shriek, an "eek!", when they put their mouth on your finger. This is rat-speak for, "Ouch, you are biting too hard". Rats have very sharp teeth and by flinching away you can still get an unintentionally cut.
How rats groom:
http://www.ratbehavior.org/glossary.htm#...
http://www.ratbehavior.org/glossary.htm#...
Just be slow and gentle for the first few days when you get them home. Let them get use to their new home and settle in before you start handling them, otherwise they may just nip out fear. The first time you back off quickly, they will have you pegged.
spazrats
"my life has gone to the rats"
Well, that makes me think that perhaps your hand smelled like food of some kind.. since their sense of smell is sharper than ours.. but it's also a "grooming" sign as well..
They think they're getting fed. My guess is that the store included a lot of bribes/treats when they hanled them. As long as they aren't too old I'm sure you can break them of the habit, and even still, rats are smart and I'm sure if you keep treats and handling independant they'll catch on.
Well treated rats are hard to come by. If I were you, I'd get them.
Aditional Info: I agree with what is above, you could have just smelled tasty. Wash your hands well, then try again.
regardless of how much the store loved rats, i'm sure they aren't handled everyday like they should be. the rats are probably curious since they probably don't get a lot of contact with humans. it was more of a curious bite on their parts, not meant to hurt, cause if they wanted to, they would have. curiosity is always a good thing in rats. i think that maybe you've found yourself a good pair.
my rats did the same thing (they were a lot younger and sisters) but they did eventually stop that behavior altogether.
one was more temperamental then the other but still liked play time. the other girl is my absolute baby! so lovey and follows me everywhere. she's like a mini lab she's so faithful to me.
rats all have their different personalities and accept it for what it is.
i think that you might have some good future rats on your hands.
Answers:
They are curious in you and that is the first sign of acceptance. Whether or not you had food on your hands they are still accepting you. I frightened rat, or one that is afraid of a person's hand because it was harrassed, or not handled enough, would not even approach you for food if that's what it thought you had. I would be very concerned if they were racing around the cage in a panic to get away from you.
Rats are oral creatures and what they are doing is exploring your hand, and grooming you. This is acceptance behavior. The problem is, they haven't been handled a lot by the store employees and therefore they have not learned to nibble softly.
You can teach your rats to groom you more gently by letting out a shriek, an "eek!", when they put their mouth on your finger. This is rat-speak for, "Ouch, you are biting too hard". Rats have very sharp teeth and by flinching away you can still get an unintentionally cut.
How rats groom:
http://www.ratbehavior.org/glossary.htm#...
http://www.ratbehavior.org/glossary.htm#...
Just be slow and gentle for the first few days when you get them home. Let them get use to their new home and settle in before you start handling them, otherwise they may just nip out fear. The first time you back off quickly, they will have you pegged.
spazrats
"my life has gone to the rats"
Well, that makes me think that perhaps your hand smelled like food of some kind.. since their sense of smell is sharper than ours.. but it's also a "grooming" sign as well..
They think they're getting fed. My guess is that the store included a lot of bribes/treats when they hanled them. As long as they aren't too old I'm sure you can break them of the habit, and even still, rats are smart and I'm sure if you keep treats and handling independant they'll catch on.
Well treated rats are hard to come by. If I were you, I'd get them.
Aditional Info: I agree with what is above, you could have just smelled tasty. Wash your hands well, then try again.
regardless of how much the store loved rats, i'm sure they aren't handled everyday like they should be. the rats are probably curious since they probably don't get a lot of contact with humans. it was more of a curious bite on their parts, not meant to hurt, cause if they wanted to, they would have. curiosity is always a good thing in rats. i think that maybe you've found yourself a good pair.
my rats did the same thing (they were a lot younger and sisters) but they did eventually stop that behavior altogether.
one was more temperamental then the other but still liked play time. the other girl is my absolute baby! so lovey and follows me everywhere. she's like a mini lab she's so faithful to me.
rats all have their different personalities and accept it for what it is.
i think that you might have some good future rats on your hands.
Another question regarding the downsizing of my rat's cage?
I found a wide guinea pig/rabbit cage (one I asked earlier about housing guinea pigs in).
My rat is 4 pushing 5 years old, and I want to downsize her cage due to the hazards her nice and spaceous home now has. She's not walking a whole lot. She'll go to the bottom when she's hungry, and to the top to sleep in her hidey-house and her hamick. I know she's getting old, so it's getting harder for her to move around, so I want to make it easier for her to move around by downsizing her 4-story cage into a 1 story cage. I found a nice guinea pig and rabbit cage, and it offers her a bunch of room to run, sleep and play.
I'm not sure if the cage bars are to wide, I don't want her escaping and hurting herself,I love her too much. I'm thiking about purchasing the medium sized one, becuase eventually I'll use it again. (I always use my cages again)
To you do the bars look to far apart? Sugar won't go as far as squeezing herself through bars, she prefers tricking me to escape.LINK BELOW
Answers:
The rule to follow for rats and mice squeezing through a space is the size of their head. If they can fit their head through, they can flatten their bodies and escape. I found out the hard way that ferret cages will not contain rats.
Have you considered an aquarium? No bars to get caught on or rip claws on and they're a very safe environment, especially for an older rat. You can get a screen cover for the top of it.
well first of all u have a rat ewww no im jp well when u have a rat near 4 or 5 they get older and tired and dont wont to do the things they used to do
I think you'll probably be okay with that. If you got it and she can squeeze through, then you could always buy some wire mesh to cover the bars with so she can't get out.
It's hard to say though because it mostly depends on how big she is, I used to have 2 males who never would have been able to fit through that, but I know females are generally a little more slender.
i think that would be okay for an older rat to be in as long as she has some room to move aroud and exercise in. the bigger the better for her though.
You should probley get a smaller cage.
It really depends on the size of your little rat. I have 2 males that I recently moved into a rabbit cage with spacing about the same as the cage in that link. I have fat boys though, and theres no way they could squeeze through those bars. Is she small? If so, she very well could fit through those spaces. If not then it should be alright, but a female could fit through much easier than a male, since females are generally smaller. But seeings as she's so old, and slowing down a bit, I doubt very much that she'd try to make an escape, but you never can be too careful. If you decide to try it, just keep a a close eye on her for a while to make sure she doesnt try to squeeze through the bars. I'd suggest putting her cage on the floor for a while, and blocking off anything she could squeeze behind and get lost, just incase she DOES get out. (you dont want her toppling off your dresser, or getting stuck behind a desk or your bed).
Ive put female rats in cages with spacing like that before..my girls were normal sized and never got out. My friend put her rat in a cage with spacing like that..her rat was younger, and on the petite side, and got out on a daily basis. (lucky for her though, her rat would just climb to the top of the cage and wait to be found). So, it really depends on the size of your rat. Also, like I said, the older my rats get, the less hell-bent they are on trying to escape.
the cage on the link is very nice and no the bars seen to little for it to get though and well it nice of you for what you are doing and since it is old it will have every thing it needs in one floor
My rat is 4 pushing 5 years old, and I want to downsize her cage due to the hazards her nice and spaceous home now has. She's not walking a whole lot. She'll go to the bottom when she's hungry, and to the top to sleep in her hidey-house and her hamick. I know she's getting old, so it's getting harder for her to move around, so I want to make it easier for her to move around by downsizing her 4-story cage into a 1 story cage. I found a nice guinea pig and rabbit cage, and it offers her a bunch of room to run, sleep and play.
I'm not sure if the cage bars are to wide, I don't want her escaping and hurting herself,I love her too much. I'm thiking about purchasing the medium sized one, becuase eventually I'll use it again. (I always use my cages again)
To you do the bars look to far apart? Sugar won't go as far as squeezing herself through bars, she prefers tricking me to escape.LINK BELOW
Answers:
The rule to follow for rats and mice squeezing through a space is the size of their head. If they can fit their head through, they can flatten their bodies and escape. I found out the hard way that ferret cages will not contain rats.
Have you considered an aquarium? No bars to get caught on or rip claws on and they're a very safe environment, especially for an older rat. You can get a screen cover for the top of it.
well first of all u have a rat ewww no im jp well when u have a rat near 4 or 5 they get older and tired and dont wont to do the things they used to do
I think you'll probably be okay with that. If you got it and she can squeeze through, then you could always buy some wire mesh to cover the bars with so she can't get out.
It's hard to say though because it mostly depends on how big she is, I used to have 2 males who never would have been able to fit through that, but I know females are generally a little more slender.
i think that would be okay for an older rat to be in as long as she has some room to move aroud and exercise in. the bigger the better for her though.
You should probley get a smaller cage.
It really depends on the size of your little rat. I have 2 males that I recently moved into a rabbit cage with spacing about the same as the cage in that link. I have fat boys though, and theres no way they could squeeze through those bars. Is she small? If so, she very well could fit through those spaces. If not then it should be alright, but a female could fit through much easier than a male, since females are generally smaller. But seeings as she's so old, and slowing down a bit, I doubt very much that she'd try to make an escape, but you never can be too careful. If you decide to try it, just keep a a close eye on her for a while to make sure she doesnt try to squeeze through the bars. I'd suggest putting her cage on the floor for a while, and blocking off anything she could squeeze behind and get lost, just incase she DOES get out. (you dont want her toppling off your dresser, or getting stuck behind a desk or your bed).
Ive put female rats in cages with spacing like that before..my girls were normal sized and never got out. My friend put her rat in a cage with spacing like that..her rat was younger, and on the petite side, and got out on a daily basis. (lucky for her though, her rat would just climb to the top of the cage and wait to be found). So, it really depends on the size of your rat. Also, like I said, the older my rats get, the less hell-bent they are on trying to escape.
the cage on the link is very nice and no the bars seen to little for it to get though and well it nice of you for what you are doing and since it is old it will have every thing it needs in one floor
Another hamster question??teddy bear hamster owners only?
my mom just scared the hamster 1-3 times and it got scared one time it rolled over quick next and next time he said something because the hamster was sleeping in his toilet can he ever get tamed?
Answers:
Just leave him alone for a couple of days. He should be fine
or one time I had a hamster who was tame and then one day he decided that he didn't like me any more he didn't come out for two weeks but when he came out again(after two weeks) he was one of the nicest hamsters I've had ( I've had four previously and at the moment I have six)
Good Luck!
Teddy Bears don't like loud noises or being scared. Try not to scare your hamster and gently pet it everyday, including your mom. Try not to bother your hamster in the morning. Hamsters are nocturnal so automatically if they are sleeping, they WILL get scared. So try not to bother your little guy!
they need to be left alone the first 2 days unless it wants to come out of its cage. They don't like sudden loud noises are to be startled when asleep, like us i guess. And get it an exercise ball at petsmart or petco to run in at night on your floor.
Answers:
Just leave him alone for a couple of days. He should be fine
or one time I had a hamster who was tame and then one day he decided that he didn't like me any more he didn't come out for two weeks but when he came out again(after two weeks) he was one of the nicest hamsters I've had ( I've had four previously and at the moment I have six)
Good Luck!
Teddy Bears don't like loud noises or being scared. Try not to scare your hamster and gently pet it everyday, including your mom. Try not to bother your hamster in the morning. Hamsters are nocturnal so automatically if they are sleeping, they WILL get scared. So try not to bother your little guy!
they need to be left alone the first 2 days unless it wants to come out of its cage. They don't like sudden loud noises are to be startled when asleep, like us i guess. And get it an exercise ball at petsmart or petco to run in at night on your floor.
Another hamster question?
what do you need for a hamster example:we need a cage for a hamster like a hamster requirement
Answers:
Well your off to a good start. If you haven't already bought a cage i recommend critter trail cages, they have all different sizes. The cage should be mostly plastic, wire trays, ladders, and wheels can seriously injure your hamster. Exercise balls are great, they need their exercise in a safe place, also they love to hide, so any thing they can hide and sleep in is great. They also love to play so little balls and things keep them busy. Hamsters have to keep their teeth filed so wood chews are a requirement. Obviously a seed mix for food, treats such as hamsteroids, they are great for keeping their teeth down along with wood chews. Yogurt drops are great also it gives them good nutrition. Vitamins in the water are excellent! Bedding, the soft fluffy kind, they love to hide and sleep in it. Wood shavings for the bottom of the cage, make sure its nothing else besides Aspen shavings, they can die from any other type. Water bottles work much better then a water bowl, bowls can spill and if your hamster gets cold and wet it can die. Exercise wheels are a requirement also.One other thing is a litter box, you can litter train them. I hope i helped out some! Good Luck!
you also need a bowl for food
hamster food of course. usually carrots is a nice side food for hamsters they tend to like those and its good for them
a special water bottle made for hamsters (usually comes with cage)
some kinda chew toy for their teeth
and they make this grass like material to put in the hamsters cage
Ok, I have four guinea pigs, and a gerbil-among other critters.I am no hampster expert, but if I worked in a pet store, here is what I would recommend:
water bottle(oasis is good(brand))-one with ball in the tube)
If you have an aquarium, the bottle needs to either suction onto the cage or clip with a velcro type plastic device...if the cage is barred, then you can clip it on normally
hidey houses-wood
NO PLASTIC for hampsters-not safe
carefresh bedding-no pine or cedar(not safe for respiratory tracts)
shredded paper towel, t paper and tissue works well-as long as there is PLENTY
wooden chew toys(rodent section in pet sores)
timothy hay-shredding/bedding/fun -also can get brome hay, oat hay, or orchard grass
carboard boxes with holes cut in them for houses and toys
hampster food
I do not know about hampster diets unfortunately-treats? Not sure what they can eat for veggies and fruits
clay pots to hide in
food bowl-ceramic
clean cage with half water and vinegar solution-dry well-then reapply bedding as needed
That is all I can think of for now-make sure your water is not too cold when you give it to her/or him, may cause intestinal upset
also make sure it is purified water-no chlorine and stuff
I have a hamster and she has everything she needs. Your hamster needs a hamster ball to run around in, a wheel ( most cages provide this ) , food, fresh clean water,bedding, treats, and something to chew on. An empty toilet paper tube will work also. Hamsters love to chew on those! That's basically everything you need!
i have acage if you want it. It is wire, has a wheel, water bottle, and a food dish. $10
Some source of water and food.
Atleast two littles houses. The smaller one should be in the corner. Hamsters tend to pick a corner as their potty corner.
Fluff. NO wood shavings since they have oils on them that can cause health probelms.
I don't buy those expensive small little cages. No more for them to run.
What I do is I use those big plastic storage bins. Do not the put the top on.
Throw aleast like an inch and a half of fluff in because they love to tunnel. And a wheel for excerise but not a wire one because their feet can become caught and it can break their legs. You can buy silent wheels and they are actually quiet.
Any other questions feel free to email me.
1. its cage should be at least 24 inches long 12 inches wide and 16 inches high : their is different types of cages wire cages and glass cages (a glass cage is just a fish tank) my hamsters seem to prefer the wire type
2. water bottle and food dish(sometimes included in cage)
3. bedding(pay attention to the brand you get some are not good for hamster's)
4.biting toy so its teeth will not overgrow but you can also give it a dog biscuit(but only 2-3 times a week)
5.a block of salt(buy one at the pet store)
6.provide a sleeping box
7. a run about ball so it can play safely out side its cage. also provide other toys besides the wheel so your hamster wont get bored(for example a toilet paper roll)
for more info go to
www.hamstercare.co.uk
A cage, a water bottle/dish, food dish, bedding (NOT pine or cedar. Carefresh is a great choice), a wheel (manditory! one with a solid base (not wire)). Food (both hamster food and daily fresh fruits/veggies). A place for the hamster to hide/sleep.
Other things that aren't a requirement but are recommended are chew toys, a hamster ball, tunnels and hamster play sets. (You can buy these things at the pet store or you can make your own at home. Ex: toilet paper tubes)
a habitrail cage, or a metal one of that size is usually fine. You should get a box for him to sleep in, of course a wheel, water bottle and food dish... you can put a glass jar in his cage as well. they're suppiosed to use this for their toilets, but y dwarf used it to store food. to each his won, I guess.my dwarf loves to climb around and stuff, so you could put a ladder and an extra shelf in the cage
Answers:
Well your off to a good start. If you haven't already bought a cage i recommend critter trail cages, they have all different sizes. The cage should be mostly plastic, wire trays, ladders, and wheels can seriously injure your hamster. Exercise balls are great, they need their exercise in a safe place, also they love to hide, so any thing they can hide and sleep in is great. They also love to play so little balls and things keep them busy. Hamsters have to keep their teeth filed so wood chews are a requirement. Obviously a seed mix for food, treats such as hamsteroids, they are great for keeping their teeth down along with wood chews. Yogurt drops are great also it gives them good nutrition. Vitamins in the water are excellent! Bedding, the soft fluffy kind, they love to hide and sleep in it. Wood shavings for the bottom of the cage, make sure its nothing else besides Aspen shavings, they can die from any other type. Water bottles work much better then a water bowl, bowls can spill and if your hamster gets cold and wet it can die. Exercise wheels are a requirement also.One other thing is a litter box, you can litter train them. I hope i helped out some! Good Luck!
you also need a bowl for food
hamster food of course. usually carrots is a nice side food for hamsters they tend to like those and its good for them
a special water bottle made for hamsters (usually comes with cage)
some kinda chew toy for their teeth
and they make this grass like material to put in the hamsters cage
Ok, I have four guinea pigs, and a gerbil-among other critters.I am no hampster expert, but if I worked in a pet store, here is what I would recommend:
water bottle(oasis is good(brand))-one with ball in the tube)
If you have an aquarium, the bottle needs to either suction onto the cage or clip with a velcro type plastic device...if the cage is barred, then you can clip it on normally
hidey houses-wood
NO PLASTIC for hampsters-not safe
carefresh bedding-no pine or cedar(not safe for respiratory tracts)
shredded paper towel, t paper and tissue works well-as long as there is PLENTY
wooden chew toys(rodent section in pet sores)
timothy hay-shredding/bedding/fun -also can get brome hay, oat hay, or orchard grass
carboard boxes with holes cut in them for houses and toys
hampster food
I do not know about hampster diets unfortunately-treats? Not sure what they can eat for veggies and fruits
clay pots to hide in
food bowl-ceramic
clean cage with half water and vinegar solution-dry well-then reapply bedding as needed
That is all I can think of for now-make sure your water is not too cold when you give it to her/or him, may cause intestinal upset
also make sure it is purified water-no chlorine and stuff
I have a hamster and she has everything she needs. Your hamster needs a hamster ball to run around in, a wheel ( most cages provide this ) , food, fresh clean water,bedding, treats, and something to chew on. An empty toilet paper tube will work also. Hamsters love to chew on those! That's basically everything you need!
i have acage if you want it. It is wire, has a wheel, water bottle, and a food dish. $10
Some source of water and food.
Atleast two littles houses. The smaller one should be in the corner. Hamsters tend to pick a corner as their potty corner.
Fluff. NO wood shavings since they have oils on them that can cause health probelms.
I don't buy those expensive small little cages. No more for them to run.
What I do is I use those big plastic storage bins. Do not the put the top on.
Throw aleast like an inch and a half of fluff in because they love to tunnel. And a wheel for excerise but not a wire one because their feet can become caught and it can break their legs. You can buy silent wheels and they are actually quiet.
Any other questions feel free to email me.
1. its cage should be at least 24 inches long 12 inches wide and 16 inches high : their is different types of cages wire cages and glass cages (a glass cage is just a fish tank) my hamsters seem to prefer the wire type
2. water bottle and food dish(sometimes included in cage)
3. bedding(pay attention to the brand you get some are not good for hamster's)
4.biting toy so its teeth will not overgrow but you can also give it a dog biscuit(but only 2-3 times a week)
5.a block of salt(buy one at the pet store)
6.provide a sleeping box
7. a run about ball so it can play safely out side its cage. also provide other toys besides the wheel so your hamster wont get bored(for example a toilet paper roll)
for more info go to
www.hamstercare.co.uk
A cage, a water bottle/dish, food dish, bedding (NOT pine or cedar. Carefresh is a great choice), a wheel (manditory! one with a solid base (not wire)). Food (both hamster food and daily fresh fruits/veggies). A place for the hamster to hide/sleep.
Other things that aren't a requirement but are recommended are chew toys, a hamster ball, tunnels and hamster play sets. (You can buy these things at the pet store or you can make your own at home. Ex: toilet paper tubes)
a habitrail cage, or a metal one of that size is usually fine. You should get a box for him to sleep in, of course a wheel, water bottle and food dish... you can put a glass jar in his cage as well. they're suppiosed to use this for their toilets, but y dwarf used it to store food. to each his won, I guess.my dwarf loves to climb around and stuff, so you could put a ladder and an extra shelf in the cage
Another hamster question?
i have a 10 gallon tank that i keep my 2 syrnian hamster in and i was wondering if i could get toys to hook on the side and like tunnels to go around it
Answers:
Yah you could. I've had 150 hamsters and I always had them in glass cages because it is easiest. Hamster really love if you stick tunnels in their. Yah know what they like the best is paper towel rolls(empty of course) or toilet paper rolls. Because they loves to climb in them and they loves to chew them up. Also and little boxes like pop tart boxes or anything like that.
I use old toilet paper tubes, they love them, and are safe to chew, and they do sell a wheel that hangs on the side of tank,
There is a way, you get toilet papertubes and tie it to the side and they love to chew on toilet paper roles and they like to sleep in tube socks
if you go to any petshop they have wooden houses and tubes that you can just place in the tank, or you can buy those extened tank lids wich has a ramp that leads up the lid to more ramps , also helps ventaltion. but it costs a good 40$
Syrians should NOT be kept together. Also, tanks don't provide good housing because of ammonia build up which can kill them. You should buy a large wire cage and use toys such as toilet paper tubes, chew sticks which can be bought at pet stores, a running wheel [flat surface NO holes], hide treats around the cage to encourage foraging, every few days don't ue a food dish, sprinkle the food around a freshly cleaned cage so they can look for it like they would in the wild. Also get some hidey houses such as the plastic igloos sold at pet stores.
no you have to get the right cage to do that.
um yea u could probally,use like a really small chainsaw but take the hamsters out!
yeh at petsmart or petsco they have little houses for them or if you wanna decorate them like a house there's a mini couch a tv they can sleep in and these tubes that they love playing in;] and a wheel. my hamster loves running when everybody's asleep and it's dark hope that helps!:)
You can put anything in there that you think is safe to chew and he can't hurt himself on. They will play with it and explore it for hours or days. When they get bored of it, just drop someting else in!
just buy a crittertrail at petsmart, you can connect all the tubes you want. Aquariums are for fish, they breed bacteria and mold.
Answers:
Yah you could. I've had 150 hamsters and I always had them in glass cages because it is easiest. Hamster really love if you stick tunnels in their. Yah know what they like the best is paper towel rolls(empty of course) or toilet paper rolls. Because they loves to climb in them and they loves to chew them up. Also and little boxes like pop tart boxes or anything like that.
I use old toilet paper tubes, they love them, and are safe to chew, and they do sell a wheel that hangs on the side of tank,
There is a way, you get toilet papertubes and tie it to the side and they love to chew on toilet paper roles and they like to sleep in tube socks
if you go to any petshop they have wooden houses and tubes that you can just place in the tank, or you can buy those extened tank lids wich has a ramp that leads up the lid to more ramps , also helps ventaltion. but it costs a good 40$
Syrians should NOT be kept together. Also, tanks don't provide good housing because of ammonia build up which can kill them. You should buy a large wire cage and use toys such as toilet paper tubes, chew sticks which can be bought at pet stores, a running wheel [flat surface NO holes], hide treats around the cage to encourage foraging, every few days don't ue a food dish, sprinkle the food around a freshly cleaned cage so they can look for it like they would in the wild. Also get some hidey houses such as the plastic igloos sold at pet stores.
no you have to get the right cage to do that.
um yea u could probally,use like a really small chainsaw but take the hamsters out!
yeh at petsmart or petsco they have little houses for them or if you wanna decorate them like a house there's a mini couch a tv they can sleep in and these tubes that they love playing in;] and a wheel. my hamster loves running when everybody's asleep and it's dark hope that helps!:)
You can put anything in there that you think is safe to chew and he can't hurt himself on. They will play with it and explore it for hours or days. When they get bored of it, just drop someting else in!
just buy a crittertrail at petsmart, you can connect all the tubes you want. Aquariums are for fish, they breed bacteria and mold.
Another hamster question?
where do hamsters like to be petted
Answers:
All hamsters are different, but usually behind the ears or the back of the neck. Some like it when you stroke the sides of their faces. Some will even close their eyes and fall asleep in your hands! Good luck and have fun getting to know your pet!
there back or under their chin
All over if your luckily! Mine use to love having her rump scratched. But soon let me know if I'd gone to far, have permanent scars to prove it!
some times on thier belly but usually on their back.
anywhere
Gently along their back is their favorite!
Note*You should really stay away fom their heads they don't like that at all, unless your doing it under their chin! :]
Answers:
All hamsters are different, but usually behind the ears or the back of the neck. Some like it when you stroke the sides of their faces. Some will even close their eyes and fall asleep in your hands! Good luck and have fun getting to know your pet!
there back or under their chin
All over if your luckily! Mine use to love having her rump scratched. But soon let me know if I'd gone to far, have permanent scars to prove it!
some times on thier belly but usually on their back.
anywhere
Gently along their back is their favorite!
Note*You should really stay away fom their heads they don't like that at all, unless your doing it under their chin! :]
Another hamster question?
have three dwarf hamsters (to black ones and a white/brown one) and they're in two different cages - the older black one with the white and brown one and obviously the small black one in a separate cage right next to the big one.
the reason they're separated because the small black one when into the big cage and the big black one followed her around and the small black one climbed on the edges of the cage and when i put my hand in the cage to give them fresh food, she climbed up my arm to get out. then last night, i put them both on my bed and let them climb around and the same thing happened, but they just walked around together until i heard a squeek and saw them fighting. so i put them in their separate cages again and right away they ran to the edges and chewed on the bars like they were trying to get back to each other, even though they didn't get along.
SOOOOO, the question is, in a couple days (probably tuesday) i'm getting a big cage (one of the ones with tubes and 2 levels and everything since they all seem pretty bored in their normal cages and the ball), would the small black one and the big black one that didn't get along stay away from each other in there or do you think they'd still fight?
Answers:
It is not advisable to house dwarf hamsters of different ages with each other. They need to be the same age to help avoid any fights. Since they have already fought once, why let this happen again by thinking about putting them together? Leave the younger one alone in it's cage and put the other 2 who already have been together in the new cage. Are they all females or some males? I wouldn't suggest breeding if you have both sexes. Dwarf hamster are even harder to get homes for then with the larger Syrian breed. Iknow this from experience and from visiting my favorite pet stor that used to sell them, but only could sell 1 or 2 a month verses 30+ Syrians a month.
We have a dwarf that was blinded and had half it's face torn off in a fight with his dad. They too had gotten along for months, but the son attacked the dad and lost, but lived. The dad has since passed, but the son will be 18 months Tuesday (6/5). They all were kept together from birth so it wasn't like they were just introduced.
I wanted to also let you know that dwarfs are prone to getting cancer and diabetes. The diabetes can somewhat be avoided through diet unless one of the parents already has it and passed the diabetes to the baby. They should never be fed any corn, peas, carrots, commercial treats, anything with any type of sugar (corn syrup, sugar, honey, or mollases), or any fruits. These foods are all to high either in natural sugar or with processed sugars. Out of the 28-30 dwarfs I've had in the last 3 years, we've had 12 with cancer all of them were related but 1 and she passed her gene for cancer to her offspring and some of them got it too. We decided to keep all the offspring of those who had cancer which was all of them. 7 are still living at nearly 18 months old. Think about how long they live too (1-2 yrs).
I've tried this before and it didn't work with my two dwarf hamsters. I think they have to be in the same litter or raised together in order to be in the same cage together. The two that already obviously don't like each other with start fighting again. I learned the hard way.
i dont think space is the issue.
in general, hamsters like to be alone.(i have only had teddy-bear hamters)
maybe they are breeding? or fighting for the attentions of the other hamster? if they are the same sex(all of them) they will continue to fight because no matter how big the cage is, they will smell eachother and see eachother occasionally.
it really sounds like they are male and female, though. look forward to babies!
Hamsters do not go together they like it alone they will kill each other and then you will only have one or none!
the reason they're separated because the small black one when into the big cage and the big black one followed her around and the small black one climbed on the edges of the cage and when i put my hand in the cage to give them fresh food, she climbed up my arm to get out. then last night, i put them both on my bed and let them climb around and the same thing happened, but they just walked around together until i heard a squeek and saw them fighting. so i put them in their separate cages again and right away they ran to the edges and chewed on the bars like they were trying to get back to each other, even though they didn't get along.
SOOOOO, the question is, in a couple days (probably tuesday) i'm getting a big cage (one of the ones with tubes and 2 levels and everything since they all seem pretty bored in their normal cages and the ball), would the small black one and the big black one that didn't get along stay away from each other in there or do you think they'd still fight?
Answers:
It is not advisable to house dwarf hamsters of different ages with each other. They need to be the same age to help avoid any fights. Since they have already fought once, why let this happen again by thinking about putting them together? Leave the younger one alone in it's cage and put the other 2 who already have been together in the new cage. Are they all females or some males? I wouldn't suggest breeding if you have both sexes. Dwarf hamster are even harder to get homes for then with the larger Syrian breed. Iknow this from experience and from visiting my favorite pet stor that used to sell them, but only could sell 1 or 2 a month verses 30+ Syrians a month.
We have a dwarf that was blinded and had half it's face torn off in a fight with his dad. They too had gotten along for months, but the son attacked the dad and lost, but lived. The dad has since passed, but the son will be 18 months Tuesday (6/5). They all were kept together from birth so it wasn't like they were just introduced.
I wanted to also let you know that dwarfs are prone to getting cancer and diabetes. The diabetes can somewhat be avoided through diet unless one of the parents already has it and passed the diabetes to the baby. They should never be fed any corn, peas, carrots, commercial treats, anything with any type of sugar (corn syrup, sugar, honey, or mollases), or any fruits. These foods are all to high either in natural sugar or with processed sugars. Out of the 28-30 dwarfs I've had in the last 3 years, we've had 12 with cancer all of them were related but 1 and she passed her gene for cancer to her offspring and some of them got it too. We decided to keep all the offspring of those who had cancer which was all of them. 7 are still living at nearly 18 months old. Think about how long they live too (1-2 yrs).
I've tried this before and it didn't work with my two dwarf hamsters. I think they have to be in the same litter or raised together in order to be in the same cage together. The two that already obviously don't like each other with start fighting again. I learned the hard way.
i dont think space is the issue.
in general, hamsters like to be alone.(i have only had teddy-bear hamters)
maybe they are breeding? or fighting for the attentions of the other hamster? if they are the same sex(all of them) they will continue to fight because no matter how big the cage is, they will smell eachother and see eachother occasionally.
it really sounds like they are male and female, though. look forward to babies!
Hamsters do not go together they like it alone they will kill each other and then you will only have one or none!
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